There Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Light does not just give the time, it whispers it to us thanks to a mechanical whim which rings the passage of each hour. And once the light goes out, it transforms into an almost unreal object thanks to a very elaborate luminescence.
I received this C1 Bel Canto Lumière to make a complete essay. And I’m going to say it without going around: it’s a piece that doesn’t seek to be consensual. She wants to provoke a reaction, spark a conversation, and, when night comes, make you want to turn off the lamp just to watch her live.
Christopher Ward: three Englishmen on the Thames and a disturbing idea
Christopher Ward’s story begins as a British joke, with a sense of timing that almost makes it seem like a communications campaign. Except that this is their founding story: in May 2004, Mike France And Peter Ellis descend the Thames by boat, joined by Chris Ward. The first two have just sold Early Learning Centre, an ethical toy company. The third is bored importing T-shirts. They are looking for a new adventure. Watchmaking fascinates them. They dig.
And they come across an element which, in the industry, is not exactly a secret, but which we often avoid talking about too loudly: the level of markup practiced by certain brands. According to their own version, a big Swiss name then applied a coefficient of 34 between the costs and the public price (an idea dear readers?). This is enough to turn curiosity into strategy.
Their idea, both simple and annoying for the system in place: offer serious, well-made watches, without making the customer pay the burden of showcase boutiques, distribution networks and campaigns with an Olympic budget. Their plan consists of three points:
- sell directly via their site;
- limit the margin (they mention a maximum of around three times the manufacturing cost);
- avoid costly celebrity sponsorships.
The formula they use sums up their homemade irony: “the cheapest most expensive watches in the world”. In French, this amounts to saying: premium watches, without the ceremonial tax. A little kick under the table of established watchmaking, without overturning the table. Which, deep down, is very British.
From online outsider to credible watchmaker
Launching a brand in 2005 selling only online was almost sacrilege. Today, “direct-to-consumer” has become a necessary step. At the time, it was a gamble. And above all, a model that circumvented the codes of traditional luxury.
I discovered Christopher Ward for the first time in a very particular context: that of Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix. Not in a slick advertisement, not in a shopping street window, but in the midst of what watchmaking does that is most institutional, most codified, sometimes most solemn. Seeing this British brand, still perceived as an outsider by some, invite itself into this very Swiss-centric circle had an impact on me. We then understand that Christopher Ward is not only looking to “make decent watches at a good price”: she wants to play in the big leagues, without asking permission.
The rest is coherent: partnerships in Switzerland, moving upmarket, development of calibers and modules. In 2014, the brand announced the caliber SH21billed as the first commercially viable “in-house” mechanical movement from a British brand in over half a century. In their official story, a Swiss CEO, stung, would have told them: “What gives you the license to do that?” » Free translation: “who allowed you to enter the living room?” Implicit answer: work, vision, and a certain pleasure in shaking up habits.
C1 Bel Canto Lumière: sound complication made desirable
Let’s be clear: the Bel Canto is not a minute repeater. And that’s precisely what makes her smart. Christopher Ward does not seek to play the same game as the big ringtones outside the budget. It offers a complication that provides immediate emotion: a jingle as the hour passesevery hour. You can hear it in the video:
The sound is audiblebut he never seeks to dominate. He is softalmost intimate. And this gentleness is, in my opinion, the strongest argument: we taste the pleasure of a watch that “lives” differently than with a second hand, without falling into heavy demonstration.
There is even something quite paradoxical with this ringing: we come to expect it. And when, through distraction, we miss the transition to the next hour, we almost feel a touch of frustration. We find ourselves regretting not having seen the little hammer start to move, not having witnessed this mechanical micro-scene playing out on the dial.
But when you hear it, even without seeing it, the magic happens. This little music, regular and faithful, does not try to prove anything. It is simply there. And that’s precisely what makes her endearing.
A dial alive by day, spectacular by night
By day, the dial is magnificent: it takes in the light, it reflects it, it comes alive. The architecture is successful, with this smoked sapphire dial which seems to float above a plate with sunray decoration, and a luminous presence thought of as a design element, not as a simple technical box to check.
At night, the watch changes size. Luminescence is amazing. The rendering is neon, very contemporary, almost science fiction, without falling into gadgetry. This is the heart of the Light concept: a level of nighttime visibility that becomes an experience, not a detail.
Comfort on the wrist: the detail that finally convinces
The bracelet deserves a paragraph on its own. THE Aquaflex bracelet is, without exaggeration, one of the most pleasant rubber straps I have ever worn, even compared to diving watch rubbers which are renowned for more than 10K. Soft, comfortable, well finished, it fits the wrist without attacking it. There folding clasp adds a real feeling of quality to everyday life.
You don’t wear a watch on a shop window. We wear it on our skin. And here, Christopher Ward has clearly thought of this essential detail.
My opinion: an excellent piece, and a real signature
The C1 Bel Canto Lumière is a watch with character. She doesn’t try to please everyone, and that’s fine. It is aimed at those who like watch objects that say something, which have an expressive aesthetic and an emotional complication.
Of course, it’s not a minute repeater. But this is precisely what makes the experience so attractive: a chime as the hour passes, soft and audible, a visible mechanical display, and a luminescence which is truly part of the identity of the watch. At this price level, the whole thing is remarkably coherent.
Data sheet: Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière
| Model | C1 Bel Canto Light |
|---|---|
| Reference (SKU) | C01-41APT4-T00V0-RW |
| Diameter | 41mm |
| Thickness | 13.65mm |
| Horn to horn | 48mm |
| Housing | Grade 5 titanium, brushed and polished finishes (“Light-catcher” architecture) |
| Weight | 53 g (case); 77 g (with bracelet) |
| Waterproofing | 3 ATM (30 m) |
| Glass | Domed anti-reflective treated sapphire; “box” type construction to expose the brightness |
| Movement | Sellita SW200-1 with FS01 bell module |
| Power reserve | 38 hours |
| Frequency | 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz) |
| Ruby | 29 |
| Tolerance announced | +/- 20 seconds per day |
| Complication | Passing chime, one chime every hour |
| Sound mechanism | “Songbird” hammer striking a steel spring; indicated note: D |
| Dial | Smoked sapphire “floating” above the plate |
| Luminescence | Globolight® (luminous ceramic) + Super-LumiNova, two-tone rendering depending on the area |
| On/off indicator | Luminescent indicator, changes appearance in the dark |
| Bracelet (tested version) | Aquaflex luminescent white rubber, “clous de Paris” pattern, 22 mm lug width |
| Loop | Folding clasp |
| Origin | Swiss made |
To remember
- A ringing sound as the hour passes which brings real watchmaking emotion, without the budgetary excess of a minute repeater.
- Spectacular luminescence thought of as a central element of design, not as an option.
- A very lively dial which captures light and plays with depth (smoky sapphire, floating architecture).
- An exceptionally comfortable Aquaflex braceletcompleted by a qualitative folding clasp.
- An outsider brand that has become crediblebuilt on a DTC philosophy and an assumed desire to shake up certain codes.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about the C1 Bel Canto Lumière
Is the Bel Canto Lumière a minute repeater?
No. It’s a ringing as it passes : the watch chimes the time every hour, but does not chime the minutes on demand. It’s a simpler, more accessible approach, and very pleasant on a daily basis.
Is the ringtone audible?
Yes, it is audible, without being intrusive. The ringing is soft, and it is precisely this softness that creates attachment: we wait for it, and we can even be disappointed to miss the passage of an hour without seeing the hammer come to life.
Is luminescence really worth the detour?
Yes. This is one of the major points of this Lumière version. At night, the watch takes on a very spectacular dimension, with a neon rendering and remarkable reading.
Transparency note: This watch was received for testing in order to carry out this test on the wrist. The above impressions and observations reflect my actual wearing experience, day and night.
