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A short time ago, I presented the new Rolex 2023 models to you. Continuing with my momentum from the Watches & Wonders show, today I am going to give you a summary of the follies that the French watchmaker Cartier has just unveiled on the occasion of this watch fair.
Cartier presented its latest vintage of novelties and believe me, there are very beautiful watches. This new Cartier 2023 collection includes, among others, the Cartier Privé model as well as iconic reiterations of the Tank and Santos-Dumont watches. The Cartier bath and a host of women’s wristwatches were also unveiled.
The new Cartier Tank Normale 2023
Like every year, Cartier fans are eagerly awaiting the release of the new Cartier Privé collection. The Cartier Paris Private Collection (CPCP) is a very special range of watches, several legendary models from the Maison Cartier are produced in limited and numbered copies.
This year, for its seventh Privé CPCP collection, Cartier unveils the emblematic Tank Normale in different versions. This watch is directly inspired by the original Tank from 1917.
The 2023 Tank Normale therefore sports a rectangular case with a brushed finish measuring 32.2 mm by 27.8 mm. There is a relatively simple and elegant dial with Roman numerals. This new version retains the aesthetic DNA of the House with its famous blued hands in the shape of swords, a cabochon on the crown of the watch the famous secret signature of the brand found in the number VII.
Limited to 200 pieces per color, the yellow gold version comes with a brown alligator strap and a blue sapphire crown. The other platinum version comes with a black alligator strap and a ruby cabochon crown. For each model, a matching bracelet in yellow gold or platinum will also be available. The watches are powered by Cartier Caliber 070 which offers 38 hours of power reserve.
The Cartier Tank Normale Skeleton version 2023
In addition to the arrival of these new Cartier Tank Normale, Cartier completes its private collection with skeleton versions of its Tank Normale. The watch will be offered in the same colors of case and dial.
This limited edition will include 50 models in platinum, 50 in yellow gold and also 20 models in platinum set with diamonds. This Tank Normale Skeleton is powered by the 9628 movement, a 24-hour caliber. The architecture of the dial is made so that the hours of the day are at the top and the hours of the night at the bottom.
Regarding the Caliber of this watch, Cartier has equipped it with its 9628 movement, a 24-hour movement that beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers 36 hours of power reserve.
The Cartier Tank Americaine of 2023
If we continue on the novelties unveiled in the Cartier Tank range, let’s talk a little about this new American Tank. This is one of the main novelties of this year 2023 which draws its inspiration from the famous Tank Cintrée.
The case design has been slightly improved to better match the shape of the wrist. Regarding the dial, the latter has also undergone some modifications to the Roman numerals which better fill the corners. There is perfect harmony between the sleek style of the dial, the shape of the case and the shape of the lugs which reinforce the silhouette of the watch.
In total, no less than 11 new Tank Américaine references have been added to the brand’s catalog with 3 different case sizes: 28mm by 15.2mm, 35.4mm by 19.4mm and finally 44.4mm by 24. 4mm all for a thickness ranging from 6.5 to 8.6 mm.
Two large models are equipped with an automatic Caliber, Cartier’s 1899 MC movement, while the smaller Cartier Tank Americaine models are equipped with Quartz Caliber. These Tank Américaine will be available in stainless steel and also in rose gold. The brand has also unveiled versions set with precious stones.
Availablity : September 2023.
The Cartier Santos and Santos Dumont 2023 edition
If there is one model that I particularly like at Cartier, it is the emblematic Cartier Santos Dumont. This year, the French watchmaker did not go with the back of the spoon regarding the Santos and Santos Dumont collections.
For the start of 2023, Cartier has unveiled five new models of their Santos Dumont watch, including three in size XL and two in size L (Large). The Santos Dumont XL have cases in yellow gold, rose gold, and one in platinum. The cases are relatively large with dimensions of 46.6 mm by 33.9 mm for a reasonable thickness of 7.5 mm.
Regarding the dials, these have a traditional railway and are equipped with colored Roman numerals that are associated with matching bracelets. Sword hands are no longer in use and Cartier has opted for apple hands. We obviously find the iconic cabochon crown on these models.
These Cartier Santos Dumont XL carry the manually wound Caliber 430MC which is based on Piaget’s 430P movement. An extremely thin movement that still offers the watch 43 hours of power reserve.
For the smaller models, in size L, there is a watch in steel and gold with a gray sunray dial and also a yellow gold version with a dark blue sunray dial. These two dials feature sword-shaped hands. For the size of the case, the dimensions are still impressive with 43.5 mm by 31.4 mm and the watches are also powered by Cartier’s caliber 430MC.
PRICE : €19,200 for the yellow gold and pink gold versions / €25,400 for the platinum version.
In the Santos family, which sports a more sporty style, Cartier is also unveiling three new dial variants. All models have a 35.1 mm diameter steel case with integrated bracelet. There are graduated dials in navy blue or green. A large model is also available with a green dial. The craftsmen of the watchmaking house deposit a thin layer of lacquer by hand to give this radiant appearance to the dial.
These 3 new Cartier Santos models are equipped with the self-winding caliber 1847MC. This movement beats at a frequency of around 4 Hz and has a power reserve of 42 hours, which is above average.
PRICE : €7,600 for the Cartier Santos Medium and €8,300 for the XL version.
The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton 2023
And yes, it’s not over yet friends. Cartier hit hard with the arrival of this little madness: a Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton. I am personally totally seduced by this magnificent, super well-executed piece.
Although the house is already a fan of skeleton versions for its watches, this year Cartier unveils this magnificent version of the Santos Dumont limited to 150 pieces. The watch is available in a yellow gold, pink gold or steel case with a beaded crown and the presence of a cabochon. The 43.5mm by 31mm case is water resistant to 3 ATM, no more.
The centerpiece of this watch lies in the breathtaking oscillating weight. This small micro-rotor mass represents the shape of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s famous airplane, a Demoiselle. This mass pays direct homage to Mr. Santos-Dumont who designed more than 22 planes and flying machines during his life.
The three Santos-Dumont Squelette models are driven by the new automatic skeleton caliber 9629 MC which offers the watch 44 hours of power reserve. This movement required almost 2 years of research and development.
PRICE : €33,300 for the Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton in steel, €43,400 for the pink gold version and finally €44,700 for the blue-lacquered yellow gold version.
The New Cartier Louis 2023
I really like the philosophy of “Less is more” and I think that sums up the Louis de Cartier collection perfectly. Watches with a simple and refined design but perfectly made. First unveiled in 1921, this year’s new collection features four new models from Cartier Louis.
There are two magnificent models in yellow gold with manual winding with burgundy or green dials and also two models that go a little more off the beaten track with dials with rather daring graphic patterns. The 4 models have a case of 33.7 mm by 25.5 mm and are water resistant to 3 ATM. The watches are equipped with the Caliber 1917 MC.
PRICE : €14,000 for the simple dial Cartier Louis and €14,300 for the models with more graphic dials.
The Cartier Panther 2023
To conclude on these Cartier 2023 novelties, we are going to talk a little about watchmaking and above all high jewelry. Indeed, Cartier presented at the Watches and Wonders 2023 show its new panther watch, emblematic of the Watches and Wonders range. A shapely design, a sculpture representing the panther closing its jaws on a magnificent black lacquered dial. The Panthère de Cartier is available in yellow gold, pink gold or white gold paved with diamonds. The piercing eyes of this watch are adorned with tsavorite or emeralds depending on the model.
The Cartier Bathtub 2023
It is impossible to talk about Cartier without mentioning the emblematic Cartier Bathtub. This watch, which first saw the light of day in 1912, is easily recognizable. This unique timepiece is the perfect balance between luxury watch, jewel and art object.
This year, Cartier revealed three models of Cartier Baignoire with compact dials with Roman numerals mounted on leather straps, pink gold, yellow gold or paved with diamonds.
The French house does not stop there and also offers two models of its Cartier Bathtub Allongée which are simply spectacular. These two watches highlight Cartier’s jewelery know-how. The model with a geometric dial combines white gold, yellow gold and black lacquered enamel. This watch required up to 24 months of work to make the welds between the different metals almost invisible.
The Cartier Clash watch [Un]limited
To end with this big summary of the Cartier 2023 novelties at the Watches & Wonders show, I present to you in a few lines the Cartier Clash watch. Here too we are between the watch and the bracelet. This high jewelry piece full of facets and polished and brushed surfaces is available in 5 versions. There are variations set with diamonds and others composed of coral or chrysoprase, a semi-precious stone of green color.
So much for this complete presentation of the new Cartier watches. I hope you enjoyed this article. Personally, I am under the spell of the new private collection with this Cartier Tank Normal, but my heart also swings for the beauty and finesse of the Cartier Santos Dumont Squelette. For more information, you can consult the site of the watchmaker Cartier.