A silent revenge

They have long been relegated to the rank of supporting roles, guilty of having precipitated the mechanical crisis. However, vintage quartz watches are coming back into favor, led by a generation that prefers style, precision and history to speculation. Thin cases, integrated bracelets, dials with 1980 graphics, and this second which beats time without ostentation: the discreet chic of quartz asserts itself again, with a cultural aura that we had forgotten.

From the 1969 revolution to the 1980 icons

On December 25, 1969, Seiko unveiled the Astron, the first quartz wristwatch: an earthquake for watchmaking. The Swiss are responding with the Beta 21 project, launched by Omega, Patek Philippe and IWC. Very quickly, the 1980s transformed this technological breakthrough into an aesthetic in its own right. The era is one of sport-chic, taut lines, angular glasses, high-tech optimism.

At Rolex, the Oysterquartz (1977-2001) reinterprets the Oyster with sharp edges and an integrated bracelet that has nothing to envy of mechanical signatures. Omega signed the Constellation “Manhattan” (1982) and its famous claws, often in a quartz version, while Cartier democratized elegance with the Tank Must, fine, urban and implacably precise. At the same time, G-Shock (1983) invented radical robustness, Swatch (1983) revived Swiss creativity with pop capsules, and Seiko multiplied technical masterpieces, from the 7A28 analog chronograph (1983) to the “Tuna” 7549 divers.

This decade imprinted a visual language: upholstered or sun-brushed dials, futuristic typographies, “TV” boxes, bracelets with curved links. A vintage vocabulary which returns today to dress the wrists with an almost insolent freshness.

Why collectors are returning to quartz

• Unfiltered design: the formal freedom of the 1980s — flat cases, sharp corners, integrated bracelets — fits perfectly with the contemporary wardrobe.
• Precision and practicality: the promise of quartz remains unbeatable on a daily basis, without winding or remorse.
• Access and authenticity: faced with the soaring prices of mechanical icons, vintage quartz offers a sincere playground, often at still reasonable budgets.
• Pop nostalgia: from 1970 LEDs to 1980 LCDs, the pre-Internet techno imagination seduces a generation attracted by pocket analog.
• Culture, not snobbery: rediscovering quartz means rereading watchmaking history beyond conventional narratives.

Models to watch out for

• Rolex Oysterquartz 17000/17013: clean architecture, clear ticking, Rolex finishing and a discreetly iconic aura. A milestone in integrated design.
• Omega Constellation “Manhattan” quartz (1980s): “claws” signed by Carol Didisheim, silvered, gold or upholstered dials, and irresistible office chic.
• Cartier Tank Must quartz: Parisian minimalism, lacquered dials, Roman numerals, a classic of urban elegance.
• Seiko 7A28 Chronograph (from 1983): first analog quartz chronograph, all-metal movement, and variants signed Giugiaro — including the one worn by Ripley in Aliens (1986).
• Seiko “Tuna” 7549 quartz: the technical diver which assumes its volume and reliability, a tool-watch icon of the 1980s.
• Casio G-Shock DW-5000C / DW-5600: the original DNA of G-Shock, indestructible rectangles, streetwear before its time.
• Citizen Ana-Digi Temp (1980): two displays, on-board thermometer, cockpit look: the chic gadget par excellence.
• Ebel Sport Classic quartz: waves of the bracelet, finesse of the case, very 80s sport-chic refinement.
• Swatch Originals (from 1983): first vintages, graphic design, manifesto of a creative Switzerland which is once again setting out to conquer the world.

Buying wisely: reflexes to adopt

• Condition of the movement: ask for photos of the module, check for any oxidation linked to battery leaks. A clean circuit is essential.
• Availability of parts: modules, circuits, coils, pushers, seals. Choose references that are still monitored or repairable by a watchmaker accustomed to quartz.
• Originality: original dial, hands, bracelet and buckle clearly enhance the piece. Beware of risky marriages.
• Waterproofing: Never assume the waterproofness of a vintage one. If necessary, have the seals and tappets replaced, then test.
• Screens and polarizers (digital): check display uniformity; A ghosted or segmented LCD can be difficult to save.
• Dimensions: many 1980 quartz are fine and wear larger thanks to the integrated bracelets. Try it, or ask for a photo wrist test.

Style: the right look in 2025

Vintage quartz is worn against the grain, with relaxation. An Oysterquartz under a cold wool blazer; a Constellation Manhattan with a white shirt and raw jeans; a Tank Must on black leather on the wrist of a velvet jacket; a square, weathered G-Shock serving a well-cut hoodie: the clash of registers creates balance. The compact formats slip under the sleeve, the digital ones accentuate the street vibe. We can even dare to use a double - mechanics in the office, quartz in the after-hours - to tell two chapters of the same passion.

A new idea of ​​luxury

Rediscovering quartz means accepting that luxury is not measured by the complexity of an escapement, but by the accuracy of a design and the emotion of an era. The 1980s made quartz an aesthetic manifesto: graphic, functional, modern. Today, at a time when authenticity takes precedence over speculation, these vintage watches are finding their place again — on the wrist, of course, but also in the great history of watchmaking. A story where the dry ticking of a jumping second reminds us that precision can also be terribly stylish.