A mechanical watch is not a simple instrument that tells the time. It is an autonomous micro-machine, an architecture of metal and rubies, a story in motion. Under the dial, everything is a question of balance: a hairspring that breathes, a balance wheel that oscillates, wheels that pass energy like a well-kept rumor. And like any living mechanism, it needs attention.
If you agree to have your car serviced without waiting for a breakdown, why treat a mechanical watch like an “untouchable” object until the day it stops? Regular servicing is not a watchmaker's whim: it is the condition for preserving the precision, reliability, water resistance and—more discreetly—the heritage value of the timepiece.
The secret of a high-performance mechanical movement lies partly in lubrication. The extremely localized friction points are lubricated with specific oils. However, these lubricants do not last forever. Over time, they dry out, migrate or degrade. Result: friction increases, wear accelerates, and the power reserve can drop. The most misleading? The watch can continue to function “more or less” correctly for a long time… while silently being damaged.
We often imagine movement as a perfectly sealed universe. In reality, a watch lives in real conditions: temperature variations, humidity, shocks, vibrations, crown manipulation. Over time, fine particles can appear. And in a caliber, a tiny grain is not a detail: it is sometimes the equivalent of a stone in a gear.
A “100 m” endorsement is not a lifetime promise. The seals (crown, bottom, pushers) age, settle, crack. A watch worn every day is also subject to commonplace attacks: soap, perfume, sweat, hot water. A service is an opportunity to replace the seals and test the tightness. Because the number one enemy of a mechanical movement remains humidity, an often irreversible tragedy.
On a watchmaking scale, a few seconds of drift per day can indicate tired lubrication, an unnoticed shock, a balance wheel that needs adjusting, or a decreasing amplitude. Regular maintenance allows for timely correction. Waiting too long means taking the risk that a simple maintenance will turn into an expensive restoration (marked center wheel, worn axle, sprockets to replace).
A “service” is not a wipe and an ultrasound bath just to be polite. At a serious watchmaker—or at the brand's after-sales service, it's a complete, methodical, almost ritual operation:
It is this process that gives the watch its vitality. Without it, we don’t necessarily “gain” seconds per day, we mostly lose years.
The honest answer depends on movement, usage and environment. But we can give reliable benchmarks:
Some brands recommend precise intervals, sometimes longer on modern calibers and new generation oils. But the classic mistake is to confuse “functioning” with “healthy”.
If you collect, you know: a watch speaks, subtly. Here are the most common signs that it is time to consult:
The best reflex: don't wait for the movement to “stop”. A breakdown is often the final chapter in a long history of neglect.
In the world of watches, the maintenance history carries as much weight as the reference. A documented revision, with supporting invoices, reassures a future buyer and protects your investment. On certain pieces, particularly sports or vintage pieces, clean and consistent maintenance can make the difference between a desired watch and a “at risk” watch.
Revise, yes. “Remake new”, not necessarily. On an old watch, excessive polishing can destroy the edges, the chamfers, and therefore part of the identity of the piece. Likewise, replacing certain visible parts (hands, dial, bezel) can affect the collectible value. The ideal is to discuss before intervention: what are we replacing, what are we keeping, and why? A good watchmaker does not impose, he advises.
Two paths are available to you, each with its virtues.
In all cases, ask for a diagnosis, a clear estimate, and explanations of what will be done. A serious revision is said: it is a guarantee of professionalism.
A mechanical watch is a paradoxical object: it measures time, but it depends on it. Regular review means accepting this elegant truth. It is not a constraint, it is a way of honoring the intelligence of the mechanism, and of keeping intact the initial promise: that of a lasting companion, transmitted, told, worn.
Basically, revising a mechanical watch means taking care of a story that you keep on your wrist. And nothing is more modern than making it last.
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