On the second-hand market, certain watches set the pace. They are transmitted, scrutinized, coveted. Between watchmaking culture, iconic design and skillfully distilled rarity, these pieces draw a clear line between collecting passion and enlightened investment. Immerse yourself in this moving pantheon where time is negotiated to the nearest second.
At a time when supply is exploding and prices are normalizing after the post-2020 euphoria, ten models continue to capture attention. They all tick the same triad: a strong narrative (space, racing, the sea), an easily recognizable aesthetic signature, and a desirability supported by international demand. In short, the ideal recipe for the collection and, sometimes, a measured investment.
From James Bond's 6538 to the contemporary 124060, the Submariner remains the archetype of the chic diver. Readability, controlled proportions, tightness: the tool has become a symbol. On occasion, it combines utilitarian charm and statutory aura.
Born for the track, become a collector's legend - special mention to vintage “Paul Newman”. Recent ceramic references (116500LN, 126500LN) remain secondary market trophies, between precision and prestige.
Designed for Pan Am, the GMT chronicles the golden age of travel. The two-tone “Pepsi” (BLRO) and “Batman” (BLNR) glasses symbolize this transatlantic chic. Second-hand, a sure classic for those who love something useful and beautiful.
The porthole according to Gérald Genta. The 5711 has faded away but its shadow hangs over the whole “integrated”. Horizontality of the dial, thinness of the case, comfort of the bracelet: the Nautilus remains the ultimate fantasy of many collectors.
The coup of 1972: steel treated like goldwork. From the Jumbo 15202 to the 15510, the Royal Oak combines “Tapisserie” dial, satin-finished edges and sculptural presence. In second hand, its magnetism does not weaken.
The only one to have set foot on the Moon. The Speedmaster transcends trends, hesalite or sapphire version, caliber 1861 or 3861. Its appeal: a solid history and a softer second-hand entry ticket.
From the trenches to the modern heyday. The Tank is concentrated Parisian elegance: stretched stretchers, Roman numerals, railway rails. The Must, Louis or Amériqueine appeal to a mixed audience, vintage and contemporary.
Well-thought-out neo-vintage. Compact size, sixties vibe, manufacture caliber: the BB58 converted a generation. Used second-hand, it combines daily pleasure and relevant value for money for a first collection.
The third way of sport-chic. Exquisite finishes, interchangeable strap system, in-house movement. The Overseas 4500V has established itself as a highly desirable alternative on the second-hand market.
High technicality worn on the wrist. Tonneau cases, composite materials, F1 influences: RM has created its own grammar. Second-hand, demand remains strong for sports series, despite sky-high prices.
The crest line is thin. For a vibrant collection, prioritize emotion and wearability: a worn watch is a loved watch. For a reasonable investment, stay focused on quality and liquidity.
After the speculative peak, it is time for selectivity. Solid icons hold their place, certain references are rediscovered (Cartier, Vacheron), and discreet good taste regains its rights. Diversity wins: less flamboyance, more substance. For those who collect with curiosity — and invest wisely — the opportunity has perhaps never been more inspiring.
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