“Finally!”: that was the word I said when Blancpain announced last spring that several Fifty Fathoms references with a red gold or titanium case with a diameter of 42 mm would be entering the permanent collection. I expressed a sort of relief because I had been waiting for years for Blancpain to finally offer a variation of the Fifty Fathoms with a smaller diameter than the 45 mm used since the launch of the contemporary automatic version in 2007. To tell the truth, I felt a great deal of frustration. The contemporary Fifty Fathoms is a very beautiful watch with a high level of execution, but its brilliant rendering and its significant size were always a hindrance for me. It was a shame because from a mechanical point of view, Blancpain had done things successfully with the development of the 1315 caliber. This caliber, excellently finished, offered 5 days of power reserve thanks to the use of 3 barrels as well as a balance wheel without an index with inertia adjustment. We must return to the situation of more than 15 years ago: the trend for longer power reserves was not yet in place and it is hardly surprising to note that this same caliber still remains the cornerstone of the collection. It is still very effective in today’s context and its innovative design of the time makes it as current as possible.
And then, above all, what frustrated me the most was to see the long list of Fifty Fathoms in limited edition, most with a diameter of 40.3mm, much more wearable, much more attractive, while the permanent collection was still stuck with the diameter of 45mm. Let’s not spoil our pleasure, the diameter of 42mm is now here, in line with Act 1 of the celebration of the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms which included a similar case.
Blancpain took its time and fortunately, the manufacturer took advantage of it to work carefully on the new references. They are not the result of a simple reduction of the case. They can even be considered as new watches. The 42mm diameter is indeed accompanied by a reduction in thickness (from 15.5mm to 14.3mm) and the lug width (from 23mm to 21.5mm), a matte finish of the case and a different dial presentation.
In order to soften the perception of the 45mm size, Blancpain had defined a raised dial that brought subtlety and reduced the risk of a uniform rendering. With the 42mm diameter, this type of dial is not required and moreover the general reduction in thickness required optimization at this level. The dials of the 42mm versions are therefore flat and have a sunburst finish that allows for pretty reflections to be preserved. Whatever its dominant color, blue or black, the finish of the dial is impeccable, highlighted by the applied numerals and indexes. The unidirectional rotating bezel with domed scratch-resistant sapphire insert remains, it is in any case part of the identity elements of the contemporary Fifty Fathoms. The location of the date window does not change either, remaining at 4:30. Given the reduction in diameter, the window is closer to the bezel than with the 45mm case. Personally, I would prefer the Fifty Fathoms without it, but the removal of the date seems to be reserved for limited series. Too bad.
The other constant is, unsurprisingly, the caliber 1315 and it could not be otherwise. I thus find the high-level performances of this caliber which in addition to its long power reserve, offers a stop-second and protection against magnetic fields due to its silicon balance spring. The decorative finish is excellent. The caliber is attractive because of its architecture, the depth effects it offers and its aesthetic approach. I really like this dominant gray which does not prevent the contrast between the oscillating weight and the bridges, plates and moving elements.
When I put the Fifty Fathoms 42mm on my wrist, I was immediately seduced. Whether in titanium or red gold, the whole thing exudes harmony and balance. Undeniably, the work done by Blancpain has paid off: the proportions are ideal and the watch fits my wrist perfectly. The matte finish and the presentation of the dial hit the mark and I was surprised to consider this version of the Fifty Fathoms as a piece that is ultimately versatile. Of course, it is basically a diver with a water resistance of 300 meters. But the more measured size, the reduction in thickness and the more refined approach make it more elegant. I therefore consider these 42mm versions of the Fifty Fathoms as a very nice evolution.
Unfortunately, Blancpain makes us pay for this success since the price of the titanium version with NATO strap is 18,000 euros. The price with a rubber or sailcloth strap increases to 19,900 euros and to 20,950 euros with a titanium strap. The prices exceed 37,000 euros for the most expensive versions in red gold. Not only are the prices high but in addition the pricing according to the straps is difficult to understand, the transition between the folding clasp of the NATO strap and the pin buckle of the rubber or sailcloth strap is prohibitive. Shouldn’t the 3 straps have been made available together in a set? Watch marketing sometimes has mysteries that customers have difficulty understanding. This aspect is a great shame because once again, Blancpain had managed to adapt the contemporary Fifty Fathoms in a 42mm case with great application and attention to detail. The different versions are very beautiful, without a doubt, so the price pill remains to be swallowed.
The pros:
+ careful work on proportions
+ the quality of execution
+ the matte finishes of the case and the sunburst finishes of the dial
+ the performance of the 1315 caliber
The cons:
– the date window at 4:30. The watch would be even more beautiful without it.
– the price level and the differences between the variations depending on the bracelets
