All it takes is a ray of light on a scratched middle for the idea to arise: “What if I had it polished?” In the collective imagination, polishing is the promise of a return to the origins, of a rejuvenated watch, free of everyday traces. However, in watchmaking, “like new” is not always progress. The scratch may be a defect... or a memory. The patina can be fatigue... or a signature. Brushed finishes and other decorative techniques, such as perlage and Côtes de Genève, also contribute to this duality, sculpting light on each piece.
The dilemma is cultural as well as technical. He opposes two visions of luxury: that of the immaculate object, and that of the experienced object. In fashion as in watchmaking, contemporary taste is rediscovering the beauty of passing time, the noble wear of leather, the softened shine of metal, the softness of less aggressive edges. In watchmaking, this translates into a word that has become almost sacred: the patina.
Polishing consists of removing a tiny layer of metal to reduce or erase scratches. On a watch, this mainly concerns the case (caseband, lugs, bezel) and sometimes the metal bracelet. This operation is carried out in stages: pre-polishing, polishing, and above all restitution of the finishes (brushed, satin, mirror polished).
The crucial point: you do not “clean” a watch by polishing it, you changes its material. Even if the amount of metal removed seems microscopic, it accumulates over time. And on certain designs, a few tenths of a millimeter are enough to change the silhouette.
A Royal Oak without its sharp edges, a Submariner without its horn geometry, a Speedmaster whose brushed surfaces become blurred: the risk is not only aesthetic, it is identity. Large manufacturers work on contrasting finishes like a couturier works on cuts. Polishing, if poorly done, can “round off” what should have remained sharp.
Polishing is not a watchmaking crime. It is a tool, sometimes legitimate, often useful. It's all about knowing Why we do it.
The main danger is confusing scratches with structural defects. A scratch tells of a use. A blunting edge tells of an intervention. However, in the watch market, intervention is visible.
Horns that become thinner, chamfers that disappear, brushed surfaces that become “smooth”: these are the classic symptoms of too much or repeated polishing. On certain angular watches (70s designs, faceted sport-chic), the impact can be immediate.
A common mistake is to polish a watch to the point of making it uniformly shiny, as if it had just come out of a bath of light. However, many cases alternate between mirror polished and brushed. Erasing these contrasts is erasing the drawing.
On a vintage watch, the logic is often reversed: a “never polished” piece with its consistent markings may be more desirable than a “remade” piece but with altered proportions. In collectors' vocabulary, we speak of a “sharp” case. A case that is too polished becomes “soft”. And this “soft” is sometimes expensive.
It all depends on the nature of the watch and your relationship to the object. A tool watch, worn for life, can assume its marks like a leather jacket assumes its folds. Conversely, a dress watch, original ultra-polished, can become dull if it becomes covered in unharmonious micro-scratches.
But the real question is almost philosophical: are you looking for a “perfect” watch or a watch “yours”? In the world of contemporary luxury, controlled imperfection is sometimes more chic than overzealous restoration. Especially if this restoration erases what you experienced with her.
We often confuse “dirty” and “scratched”. A serious cleaning can already transform the appearance of a watch: deposits, grease, dust encrusted in the links... A clean watch appears sharper, without losing a micron of metal.
On certain brushed finishes, a competent workshop can carry out a light refresh while respecting the direction of the original brushing. It is a more subtle operation than a general mirror polish, but it requires a real watchmaking hand.
On polished steel, micro-scratches are almost inevitable. The obsession with “zero defects” can become tiring. Many enthusiasts end up considering these traces as natural background noise, provided there are no deep shocks.
If you choose polishing, do it methodically. This is not a “cosmetic” operation that should be undertaken lightly.
Personally, I use a professional steel polishing cloth known: “el famoso” Cape Cod:
You'll find it for around ten euros here.
Polishing your watch is neither an obligation nor a taboo. It is a choice which must respect two things: the design of the room and its history. On a modern watch worn every day, light polishing, well done, can restore pleasure. On a vintage or sought-after watch, the most elegant option is often... to do nothing, or almost nothing.
Please share by clicking this button!
Visit our site and see all other available articles!