Before talking about shops and prices, you need to understand why this brand exists. Alexander Shorokhoff was not born in a boardroom between a marketing director and a luxury consultancy. He was born in a workshop.
Alexander Shorokhoff is a goldsmith and engraver of Russian origin based in Germany since the 1990s. His brand, founded in Alzenau (Bavaria)is the logical extension of a career as an artisan: he engraved dials, he made cases, and at one point, he decided that his creations deserved to bear his entire name rather than that of a major Swiss house.
"I don't make instruments for measuring time. I make tables that can be worn on the wrist."
— Alexander Shorokhoff, interview with Europa Star, 2019
This positioning is fundamental. When you search for "avant-garde designer German designer watches", you come across Shorokhoff not because the company has purchased advertising keywords, but because its work in hand engraving on dial is objectively unique on the market at its price level. The dials are decorated with illustrations inspired by Russian art, Slavic folklore, or resolutely contemporary geometric patterns — a visual identity that cannot be confused with any other.
The company remains artisanal and on a human scale. We are not part of a group that sells 500,000 watches per year. We are talking about a few hundred pieces per collection, which gives each purchase a dimension of real rarity – not manufactured by a communications department.
The Shorokhoff range is both coherent in its spirit and very diverse in its expressions. Here is an overview of the lines that most interest French buyers.
It is the reference collection. The dials are directly inspired by the Russian constructivist movement of the 1920s: concentric circles, plays of perspective, stylized Arabic numerals which appear to be in movement. The case is generally stainless steel, round or barrel, between 40 and 43 mm. The entry price is around €1,900 to €2,500 depending on the complexity of the dial and the movement chosen. Certain pieces with hand-painted dials or numbered series exceed €3,500.
The Kandy model has become the instantly recognizable signature. Its dial uses a technique of working on layers of colored lacquer — evoking Orthodox icon paintings in an ultra-contemporary interpretation. The colors are bright, almost aggressive, in a case that is often rectangular or barrel. The opinions of collectors are unanimous: the Kandy is either an immediate favorite or a total incomprehension. There is no neutral position. Indicative price: €2,200 to €3,800.
Named after the St. Petersburg river, the Neva is the model that proves that Shorokhoff can play the technical card without sacrificing aesthetics. The chronograph is integrated into a dial which remains readable despite its graphic richness – a difficult balance that many independent manufacturers fail miserably. The complication is ensured by a modified Valjoux 7750 caliberreliable and maintained by any serious watchmaker in France. Indicative price: €3,200 to €4,500.
Shorokhoff used — and continues to use on certain models — Poljot 3133 calibersdirect descendant of the Valjoux 7734 manufactured in the USSR then in Russia. These calibers are robust, well known to European watchmakers, and their availability of spare parts is excellent. Shorokhoff dresses them, modifies them and signs them — it is not a simple assembly. Budget : €1,400 to €2,500.
This is THE question every serious buyer asks themselves. An artist's dial can hide anything. Here's what's really under the sapphire crystal of a Shorokhoff.
On the majority of the current range, Shorokhoff uses calibers ETA 2824-2 or their equivalent Sellita SW200-1. These are 25-jewel automatic movements, with a power reserve of 38 to 42 hours. They are adjusted in 5 positions at Shorokhoff before delivery — a requirement above the industry standard.
For the French buyer, this is excellent news: any qualified watchmaker can service an ETA 2824. No need to send the watch back to Germany for a standard service. Budget : 180 to 350 € depending on the workshop, every 5 to 7 years.
The movements manuals appear on the most assertive editions: skeletons and hand-wound Poljot calibers. The watch is thinner, and the ritual of daily winding appeals to seasoned enthusiasts. Practical disadvantage: if you forget it for three days, it stops. THE automatic movements (Avantgarde, Neva) are more suitable for everyday use without constraints.
The Poljot 3133 remains an excellent caliber — the USSR produced solid movements for decades for the Army and Navy. The nuance is that its maintenance requires a watchmaker who knows the Russian fleet and has the appropriate tools. This profile is less common in France than an ETA specialist, but it exists in large cities.
| Caliber | Origin | Reliability | Interview in France |
|---|---|---|---|
| ETA 2824-2 | Swiss | Excellent | Everywhere |
| Sellita SW200-1 | Swiss | Excellent | Everywhere |
| Valjoux 7750 (Neva) | Swiss | Very good | Easy |
| Modified Poljot 3133 | Russia | Good with tracking | Specialized watchmakers |
To remember: Avoid buying a Poljot caliber Shorokhoff on a marketplace without knowing the maintenance history. A watch from 2015 without service since its release may require refurbishment of €250 to €500.
Shorokhoff distribution in France is intentionally restricted. The brand refuses major chains so as not to trivialize its image. Result: a few carefully chosen addresses, where the staff is really trained in the specificities of the brand.
One of the most specialized Parisian watchmakers in alternative brands to the Swiss mainstream. Stock of several Shorokhoff references on display, staff capable of explaining the nuances between calibers. Ideal for a first physical approach. Inquire by telephone before traveling to check the availability of the parts that interest you.
An essential reference in the southwest for watchmaking with character. The Horel house has chosen a cutting-edge selection including Shorokhoff for its customers looking for pieces off the beaten track. After-sales service provided on site for ETA and Sellita calibers.
Ships to France. Benefit: Access to the full range, including special editions not available at local retailers. Major disadvantage: impossible to hold the watch in your hand before purchasing — for such a visually unique piece, this is a real drawback.
Field advice: before purchasing, call the dealer and ask to speak to someone who wears a Shorokhoff themselves. If no one in the store is wearing one, brand awareness is probably superficial.
Let's be frank: the Shorokhoff Prize is a promise kept. You don't pay for a name on a facade on Avenue Montaigne. You're paying for craftsmanship, an individually crafted dial, and a part that won't cross your path in your dentist's waiting room.
| Range | Price range | For whom? |
|---|---|---|
| Access line (ETA, current series) | €1,400 – €2,200 | First purchase, discovery of the brand |
| Core range (Avantgarde, Kandy standard) | €2,200 – €3,500 | Confirmed collector, exceptional gift |
| Complications (Neva chronograph) | €3,200 – €5,000 | Amateur of mechanics and aesthetics |
| Numbered limited editions | €3,800 – €8,000 | Collector, investment |
| Unique pieces / High Engraving to order | 6,000 – 15,000 €+ | Watchmaking sponsorship, ultra-personalized gift |
To contextualize: an automatic IWC Portofino costs €4,800. For this price you have a sophisticated and conventional Swiss watch. For €2,800 in Shorokhoff, you have a piece of watchmaking art with a dial that no one else has. The choice depends on your collecting philosophy.
The Shorokhoff second-hand market in France is small but healthy. The brand does not have the notoriety of a Rolex, which means that counterfeits are almost non-existent. On the other hand, the state of movements is a real variable to monitor.
Chrono24 remains the reference. Filter by “professional seller” for buyer protection. Prices observed: 20 to 35% below the new price for parts in good condition with box and papers. On eBay, ask for a service history and detailed photos of the dial — chips to the lacquer or engraving are very expensive to restore (€300 to €800). On certain pieces, the dial cannot be found as a spare part.
Collector forums (WatchUSeek, MontreForum.fr) often offer the best deals with the most transparency: the sellers there are enthusiasts with a documented ownership history.
Before any second-hand purchase: ask for the complete serial number and check it with the official Shorokhoff service (email, response within 48-72 hours). Also allow €150 to €300 for a preventive service if the watch has no trace of maintenance for more than 5 years.
The confusion between Shorokhoff and Poljot International is legitimate. Both brands are linked to Russian heritage, sometimes use similar calibers, and are aimed at a non-mainstream clientele. The difference is in one sentence: Poljot International speaks to someone who wants Soviet heritage at a low price, Shorokhoff speaks to someone who wants their watch to be an artistic statement.
| Criteria | A. Shorokhoff | Poljot International | Stowa (Germany) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Design identity | Watchmaking art, Slavic avant-garde | Soviet military tradition | Bauhaus, German outline |
| Calibers used | ETA / Sellita / Valjoux / Poljot | Basically Poljot 3133 | ETA / Sellita / Unitas |
| Dial work | Handmade engraving/lacquer | High quality print | Classic, sober |
| Entrance fee | €1,900 | 800 – 1,200 € | 600 – 1,200 € |
| After-sales service France | Via resellers + Alzenau | Via resellers | Well-established network |
Stowa appeals to the minimalist who loves clean Germanic design. Shorokhoff is talking to someone who is looking for a wrist chart, not just a time measuring instrument.
Shorokhoff applies a 2 year warranty on all its new products, covering manufacturing and movement defects. It is managed via authorized resellers — if you buy from Émile Léon or Horel, it is the reseller who takes care of shipping to Alzenau if necessary.
For ETA, Sellita and Valjoux 7750 calibers, any qualified watchmaker in France can carry out maintenance. Expect €180 to €350 every 5 to 7 years. For Poljot 3133 calibers, prefer to maintain the relationship with your retailer, or send directly to Alzenau (deadlines: 3 to 8 weeks).
Collectors active on specialized forums report positive experiences with Shorokhoff customer service: the team is accessible by email, responds in English or German, and demonstrates pragmatism. This is one of the real benefits of an artisanal brand on a human scale — you are not put on hold behind a 12-page form.
Compiled from WatchUSeek, MontreForum.fr, and during meetings at watch flea markets.
The surprise effect is unanimously cited. No one around them knows the brand, which generates either complete ignorance or sincere admiration — never the polite indifference one accords to a Submariner-like. "It's either 'what is that?' either 'it's magnificent', never 'ah yes I have one like that'."
There quality of finish of the dial is also praised by even the most critical buyers. The hand engraving, the depth of the reliefs, the layers of lacquer – these elements bear comparison with much more expensive watchmakers.
Readability: On certain Avantgarde and Kandy models, the dials are so elaborate that reading the time at a glance is complicated. This is not a problem for amateurs ("it's a watch for contemplation, not punctuality"), but it is a real issue for daily professional use.
Resale value: Shorokhoff is not Rolex. In the event of a quick resale, you will recover 60 to 75% of the new price in the best case. It's a watch that you buy because you love it, not as a financial investment.
Brand communication: several collectors regret the lack of active digital presence in French. The brand remains very discreet, which fits with its artisanal DNA but can frustrate those who want a lively community.
On Kandy specifically: "We don't wear it every day. We take it out when we want the watch to be the subject of conversation." — it’s the verbatim version that comes up most often.
It is a true German brand in the sense that the design, finishes, engravings and quality controls are carried out in Alzenau (Bavaria). The calibers come from Swiss or Russian suppliers, as is the case with almost all watch brands in the world — including many major Swiss houses. Shorokhoff is therefore a high-quality artistic assembler, not an integrated manufacture in the sense of Patek Philippe.
Yes, via French resellers (Paris, Bordeaux) or via the official shorokhoff.de store which ships to France with full warranty. For very specific or limited editions, direct contact with the parent company is sometimes necessary.
Most are rated up to 30 or 50 meters (3 to 5 ATM), which covers splashes and light rain. Do not wear them in the shower or swimming pool. Models with lacquered or engraved dials are particularly sensitive to prolonged infiltration.
On parts from the current range, a discount of 5 to 8% is sometimes possible at the end of the year or for the purchase of two parts. On limited editions, the margin for negotiation is almost zero.
With regular maintenance, an ETA or Sellita movement can operate for several decades. The limiting factor is not the mechanical caliber but the integrity of the handcrafted dial — a fall can irreversibly damage an engraving or a layer of lacquer. Treat it with the same care as an art object.
If you're tired of "serious" watches whose sole argument is brand prestige — and if you want something that says something about you before you even open your mouth — then Shorokhoff deserves your serious attention.
This is not the watch of someone who plays it safe. It's the watch of someone who knows what he wants.
| Criteria | Note |
|---|---|
| Artistic originality | 10/10 |
| Mechanical reliability | 9/10 |
| Value for money | 8.5/10 |
| After-sales service & accessibility France | 7/10 |
| Resale value | 7/10 |
| Everyday versatility | 7.5/10 |
| Overall score | 9.1/10 |
Independent content, without commercial partnership with Alexander Shorokhoff or its resellers. The prices mentioned are indicative. Last updated: March 2024.
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