Do you have an automatic watch and have you noticed that it stops when you don't wear it for a few days? This is completely normal. An automatic watch works thanks to the movements of your wrist, which power its internal mechanism. Without this regular movement, it will eventually stop.

This is where the automatic watch winder comes in, an accessory that has become essential for watch enthusiasts who want to keep their timepieces in perfect working order.

What is a watch winder and how does it work?

A watch winder, also called a watch winder in English, is a motorized box that reproduces the natural movements of the wrist. The watch is placed on a rotating cushion which rotates in predefined cycles, thus keeping the mechanism in permanent activity.

Concretely, the internal rotor of the watch is driven by these rotations, which allows the power reserve to be kept at its optimal level.

Modern winders generally offer several rotation modes — clockwise, counterclockwise, or alternating — as well as different revolutions per day (TPD) settings. This last parameter is essential, because each watch caliber has specific needs. A Rolex Submariner, for example, does not require the same number of rotations as an Omega Seamaster.

Why use a winder for your automatic watches?

Beyond the simple comfort of finding your watch on time, the watch winder has several concrete advantages for the longevity of your timepiece.

First of all, it keeps the movement lubricated. The oils present in the caliber are designed to operate in motion. When a watch sits still for long periods of time, these lubricants can freeze or shift, accelerating wear and tear on mechanical components. A winder avoids this problem by keeping the mechanism active.

Then, for watches equipped with complications — perpetual calendar, moon phases, chronograph — resetting the time after stopping can be tedious. Certain complications require delicate handling of the crown, and each intervention increases the risk of premature wear of the winding stem. With a watch winder, this problem disappears.

Finally, for collectors who own several watches and wear them in rotation, the watch winder is simply essential. It ensures that every piece is ready to wear at any time, without wasting time.

The essential criteria for choosing the right watch winder

Faced with the diversity of the offer, it is easy to feel lost. Here are the key points to consider before making your choice.

The number of revolutions per day (TPD) and the directions of rotation are the first criteria to check. A good winder should offer flexible adjustment, ideally between 650 and 1,800 TPD, with three directions of rotation available. This ensures compatibility with the vast majority of calibers on the market.

Noise level is an often overlooked but crucial aspect. A winder placed in a bedroom or office should be silent. Choose models equipped with Japanese Mabuchi engines, renowned for their silence and reliability.

Build quality and finishes also matter. A winder is also a decorative object, often displayed in a living room or dressing room. Models in lacquered wood, leather or with integrated LED lighting add a touch of elegance to your interior while showcasing your watches.

Finally, think about diet. The watch winders operate on mains power, batteries, or both. A hybrid model offers the flexibility of being able to be moved easily, for example when traveling.

Where to find a quality winder?

The market is full of winders at all prices, but not all are equal. Entry-level models sold on large marketplaces are often equipped with noisy and undurable motors. For a long-lasting investment, it is better to turn to specialized boutiques which rigorously select their products and offer real support in choosing the model suited to your watches.

Some tips for using your watch winder properly

Once you have chosen your watch winder, a few good practices will help you get the most out of it. Start by consulting your watch's documentation to find out the TPD number recommended by the caliber manufacturer. A setting that is too high does not risk damaging your watch - modern movements are equipped with a disengageable system - but a suitable setting optimizes the longevity of the mechanism.

Place your watch winder out of direct sunlight and in a stable temperature environment. Excessive heat can damage your watch's lubricants, while humidity can damage both the winder and bracelet of your timepiece.

Also remember to alternate rotation and rest periods. Most quality watch winders already have intermittent cycles built in, but check to make sure yours does. Continuous 24-hour operation is neither necessary nor desirable.

In summary, the automatic watch winder is not a simple gadget: it is a real tool for your watches. Well chosen and correctly used, it extends the life of your timepieces, saves you from repetitive resets and highlights your collection. Whether you own a single watch or an entire collection, investing in a quality watch winder is a choice you won't regret.