The 2025 edition of the Watches & Wonders show closed its doors a few days ago on a bitter note following Donald Trump’s announcement of the implementation of customs taxes that would heavily hit Swiss exports to the United States. The actors’ reaction was at the time of taking the news with Flegme, the message being to consider that it was necessary to wait to see how it all was going to develop during the following weeks. The break on break for three months of these taxes that followed does not solve the problem: the situation remains complicated, uncertainty reigns and all the more since these taxes would concern the market which was the most efficient of the last months. We would have almost forgotten that the show presented the main novelties of the year but fortunately, some actors drew out of the game and were able to reveal interesting pieces.
I always have a lot of fun participating in the show. It is perfectly organized, we go from one presentation to another, we see beautiful watches, we meet friends, collectors, actors in the profession, the stands are magnificent, in short it is happiness. Now, while I approach my twentieth Sihh + Wondches & Wonders participation, you have to know how to step back and forget the container to focus on the content.
The 2025 vintage was average. It was not the most creative and innovative in which I participated but it was far from being the worst. And as in addition, the main surprise (in my eyes) came from the market leader, it gave a special character to this edition.
I saw some trends there that are hardly surprising:
- Reduction of sizes with the presentation of several models with 34/35mm diameters in several price segments.
- The use of the platinum is confirmed: the platinum is currently more affordable than gold and this even if it requires more material and its machining is more complex. And as neutral color makes watches more discreet, this promotes its use.
- Most of the innovations consisted of the evolution of existing models with ultimately few new movements. Is this a problem in this case? No, since this perpetuates the current calibers and tends towards general reliability. Brands like even less than customers passages in after -sales service.
- The development of colored dials and the use of semi-precious stones.
- Finally, in some, the desire to offer more with a controlled rate. I finally felt this trend which is unfortunately not the most marked but it is there! Faced with the difficulty (not to say the impossibility) to lower prices while noting that the latter are too high for certain markets such as Western Europe, brands wanted to improve products at equivalent prices. I will come back to this point with the example of Panerai who perfectly illustrates the subject.
It is therefore time to present the selection of my 10 favorite lounge watches to you. Apart from a few models, I could easily have replaced some by others given that there have been few “obvious” watches. But as always, you have to make a choice, so here it is.
Rolex Land-Dweller
In fact, it’s my favorite living room watch. She was the most media and rightly so. The neo-retro stylistic approach is successful, the whole is slender and elegant while offering a dial that I found very contemporary. And above all this watch symbolizes a new page for Rolex with a new 5Hz caliber based on an exhaust inspired by the natural exhaust. The caliber is also visible which testifies to Rolex’s desire to open up and to highlight its movements more. A real success, a real novelty from Rolex and especially the first steps of a new generation of movements.
Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 Yellow Gold
So certainly the watch is limited to 11 copies and it will not upset the market. But the Constant Force Tourbillon 11 by Arnold & Son is simply beautiful and faithful to the roots of the brand. The purity of the dial contrasts with the very beautiful spectacle offered by the movement. We are here in classicism with a touch of originality. In the end, a bewitching watch.
Tag-Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
It was the very good surprise from Tag Heuer. Here is a product adapted to the market: it’s fun, it’s colorful, it’s well done, the diameter of 38mm corresponds better to the tastes of today and its price remains “reasonable” (below 2,000 euros) even if obviously, it is not comparable to that of the original Formula 1. In the end, a very attractive watch which also gives the feeling that Tag Heuer revives its basic customers.
Hyt S1
I really like what Hyt has been doing since the reminder of the brand. There is a kind of awareness that allowed Hyt to focus on the essentials: watches are more portable, easier to live and they rely on a now reliable mechanism. The S1 is part of this approach with a more open and technical rendering which corresponds well to the spirit of the brand. The S1 is undoubtedly a successful watch which allows you to enjoy the fluidic display with pleasure and serenity.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic
Jaeger-LeCoultre again put the accent on the Reverso and I found the geographic tribute very successful. It combines two elements that hit the bull’s eye: a new mechanism of large date and a display of the universal time which allows you to enjoy a spectacular view of the globe. It therefore takes full advantage of the advantages of the Reverso by offering two distinct universes within the same watch. This watch invites you to travel and gives the feeling of having the whole world on the wrist. A very pleasant feeling!
Type 7 support
By offering a metal bracelet to the type 7, Benoît Mintiens continues his reflection on the ergonomics and on the interaction between the watch and its owner. In any case, this bracelet goes very well to this titanium watch and as always with Selfen, the type 7 is a stylistic success highlighted by the originality of the display. And as it incorporates a useful complication (the display of a second spindle), the type 7 has really everything to please. I consider it one of the most successful feeling watches.
Traditional Vacheron Constantine 38mm with manual reassembly – 270th anniversary
The factory celebrated its 270th anniversary and it marked the spirits with the Solaria, the most complex wrist watch ever made, incorporating 41 complications. This venerable birthday also gave the opportunity to present versions of several models in a limited series with a dial sporting a decor inspired by the Malta cross and a “single coast” movement finish. It is ultimately the simplest, the traditional manual reassembly which derives the most benefits because its simplicity highlights the quality of the finishes and what it is in platinum or rose gold.
Patek Philippe 5370R
I do not know if it is due to the omnipresence media of the neighbor Rolex but I found that we were talking about little Patek Philippe during the show. And yet I found this 2025 solid collection with me, in my opinion, a remarkable watch, the 5370R chronograph with catch -up. The catch -up chronograph is one of the most complex complications of watchmaking. And when things get complicated, Patek Philippe stands out. I found this wonderful watch in its execution: its enamel dial, its case and above all the precision of the trigger of the functions of the chronograph. Everything is perfect. As for the show offered by the movement, it is a wonder.
Bulgari Octo Finisimo Ultra Tourbillon
And an additional world record for Bulgari with the ultra -whirlwind octo finissimo which offers a skeleton whirlwind in a 1,85mm thick box. What is surprising is the visual rendering because despite its extreme finesse, the watch offers striking contrast and volume effects. Beating records is good. Doing it in style is better and Bulgari got there.
Van Cleef ARPELS BAL Automate lovers
Van Cleef Arpels has the ability to tell stories through his watches. The display of time is only a pretext and the brand invites us to explore a poetic and romantic universe. The ball of lovers is distinguished from the bridge of lovers because the characters are not dedicated to the display of time. They come alive on demand and it is then a wonderful scenette that takes place before our eyes. I must admit that it is also good to discover a kind of dreamlike Paris that I would like to see in real life so much but it’s another story. In any case, the ball watch of the PLCs of PLCs left me an unforgettable memory.
Of course, I will have the opportunity to come back to some of these watches and to others that would have deserved to enter the selection because once again, it was very difficult to choose 10 especially in a homogeneous context and without real pieces which were distinguished apart from one or two.
