Putting your watch on display: the eye, the light, the gesture
Photographing a watch is not just about megapixels. It is a discreet, almost ceremonial art, where the lighting reveals the volumes, where the dial becomes a miniature landscape, where a reflection can tell the story of the beveling of a horn as well as a fitting in a boutique. In the workshops, watch photographers talk about “shaping” the light like polishing an edge: with patience, precision, respect for the materials. The good photo is no accident; it’s a carefully prepared meeting between your watch and the light.
Prepare the watch like a studio
Cleaning and politeness adjustments
- Microfiber and blower: remove dust and traces. A particle appears gigantic in macro.
- Rodico (or cleaning paste): for the recesses of the bezel, between lugs, around the crown.
- Bracelet ready: brush a brushed steel in the direction of the grain, polish a leather, adjust the links.
- Classic time: 10:10 a.m., small seconds at 30, set date (or hidden if outside the cycle).
- Winding: a full power reserve guarantees a smooth second hand during a “live” grip.
Simple accessories that change everything
- Window and white curtain: natural lighting diffuses without being harsh.
- A4 sheets, white tablecloth, shoe box: perfect for DIYing a mini studio and reflectors.
- Black cardboard (“flags”): they sculpt clear contours on the mirror polishes.
- Tripod, shutter release (or 2 s self-timer): stability = sharpness.
- Circular polarizing filter: reduces unwanted reflections on the glass.
- Adhesive paste: to hold the watch at an angle without it slipping.
Mastering lighting: the most valuable complication
A watch reflects everything: you, the room, the window, the lamp. The secret? A large and gentle source, intelligently placed. Indirect daylight remains unbeatable; a homemade softbox or light box works miracles. Banish the front spotlight: it crushes the volumes and drowns the dial in reflections.
- Place the watch 45° from the window. The light glides and reveals textures without burning the glass.
- Approach a white reflector on the opposite side to unblock the shadows and smooth the index fingers.
- Use black cardboard to draw a dark border along a polished chamfer: a “haute horology” moment.
- With a polarizer, turn slowly until you find the right balance between readability of the dial and shine of the glass.
The dial like a landscape
A sunburst reveals its rays when the light “scrapes” the surface; a guilloche vibrates at the slightest variation in angle. Tilt the watch rather than the device: 10 to 20 degrees is enough to light up the streaks, give depth to the flange, and make the faceted indexes hang. If the material is dark, underexpose slightly to preserve the nuances; if the dial is light, protect the highlights.
Play with reflections, not suffer them
The reflection is your brushstroke. Without it, a mirror polish appears flat; with excess, it becomes messy. Look for clear but controlled catchlights.
- Tilt the watch until the bezel returns to a continuous luminous border.
- Remove all point sources (bare bulbs, spotlights). Prefer a broad and single source.
- Place a black flag at the edge to mark an edge and lighten the glass.
- On a domed sapphire, a slight off-centering of the camera is enough to eliminate the glare.
Composition and style: telling rather than showing
Wrist or still life?
- Wrist shot: facing a window, elbow close to the body, wrist slightly turned 3/4. The arm guides the eye towards the watch.
- Wardrobe: shirt sleeves, leather, desk grain… favor materials that interact with the piece.
- Still life: map, passport, glasses, driving gloves… one accessory is enough. Beyond that, the image is lost.
Simple rules that work
- Rule of thirds: place the watch on a strong point, let the framing breathe.
- Vanishing lines: the diagonals of a book, the seam of a strap, the rib of a piece of wood guide the eye.
- Restricted palette: two dominant colors + a metallic touch. The dial must remain the hero.
Shooting techniques
Smartphone or camera: choose the tool
A recent smartphone is enough for a superb photo. Activate Pro/RAW mode if possible, avoid ultra wide-angle which distorts, prefer 2x/3x. Lock AF/AE on the logo or an index, lower the exposure from -0.3 to -0.7 EV to preserve the dial. A small tripod and remote release transform the situation.
With a hybrid/reflex, a 60 to 100 mm macro is the ideal lens. Start at f/8-f/11, ISO 100-200, on tripod. Move the watch rather than changing the lighting; every millimeter counts to tame a reflection.
Sharpness and depth
- Focus on an index close to the plane of the hands (1 o’clock/11 o’clock) for optimal perceived sharpness.
- If the watch is thick, practice simple focus stacking (2-5 views) to keep everything sharp without closing down too much.
- Avoid diffraction: beyond f/16 on most sensors, micro-detail disappears.
- Stabilize: tripod, self-timer, or stabilization activated if you shoot handheld.
Retouching and color fidelity
Retouching is not makeup; it’s fine tuning. Start with white balance: daylight (around 5200K) as a base, or gray card if you have one. Adjust contrast and clarity sparingly; a slight micro-contrast can wake up the chamfers, but watch for noise on the dial.
- Remove dust and fibers with the correction tool. Focus, don’t erase the personality of the room.
- Moderate saturation: keep a blue that stays blue, a green that doesn’t invade. The dial dictates the law.
- Final sharpening after resizing. For the web, 2048 px on the long side and a slight sharpening are enough.
- Bonus: a low-light “lume” shot and a close-up of the movement enrich your series.
Express checklist before publishing
- Time at 10:10, hands clear of indexes and texts.
- Clean dial, dust removed, clear glass.
- Soft lighting, controlled reflections, no bulbs in the sapphire.
- Straight horizon, airy composition, readable subject.
- True colors, whites not burned, blacks not clogged.
- Sharpness where needed, no motion blur.
- Format adapted to the network (4:5 or 3:2), careful compression.
- A signature detail: chamfer, guilloche, texture of the bracelet… does your image say something?
Ultimately, photographing a watch is saluting the work of the hands that made it. A little method, a well-placed light, a respected dial: and your photo ceases to be a memory to become a portrait. The rest is just training and a taste for detail, just like watchmaking.
