It does not rejuvenate us. The RM 016 was unveiled by Richard Mille in 2007 and I remember very well that I was very seduced by this room. It was the first rectangular watch of Richard Mille and despite its generous size, I was attracted by the fluidity of its lines amplified by the finesse of the case. The aesthetic approach was finally similar to that of the duo RM 05 and RM 010, staging an open dial, the peripheral characteristic figures and a date window discreetly housed at 7 am. Given my interest in the RM 016, I welcomed with great curiosity (and I must admit it with surprise) the announcement of a new version of the RM 016 … 18 years after the initial version. And the least we can say is that RM 16-02 shows a lot of maturity by offering real advances compared to the original model. All the talent of Richard Mille’s teams was to keep the spirit of this rectangular watch while making it evolve significantly.
3 major changes must be highlighted. The first is a modification of the size. This modification is subtle because the width and length are only reduced by a few percent. Richard Mille announces that the total volume of the watch is reduced by 10 percent. I do not know how they come to this result since by comparing the dimensions of the original RM 016 (49.8mm x 38mm x 8.25mm) to those of the RM 16-02 (45.6 5mm x 36mm x 7.45mm), I arrive at a different result (either a more significant reduction!) Whether on the surface or in volume. Regarding a form watch, this evolution is in any case perceptible and impactful. The RM 16-02 thus gains elegance and becomes easier to wear.
The other change is the design of the visible part of the movement on the dial side. I could evoke the clean design of the dial but no: the dial is always open and it is the movement which is staged behind the figures. These figures are also connected by a double line which draws an improbable geometric shape and which accentuates the very angular style. The figures and indexes are therefore located in the foreground and the watch, despite its finesse, offers a very successful depth effect. The visual rendering is spectacular and offers a slightly paradoxical sensation. It looks like a nice bazaar but as everything is nested with very pronounced straight lines, it is at the same time very structured. In any case, the result is there: the design of this visible part on the dial side is very contemporary, successful and is ideally married with the shape of the case. The readability is even preserved since the contrast between the needles and the movement is sufficient. And then, how not to mention a decision that could not be convinced: the withdrawal of the date window. The RM 16-02 offers only the display of hours and minutes, it goes to the essentials and it does it very well. The removal of the counter is explained, beyond the aesthetic interest, by optimizing the thickness of the case. The height of the housing is only 7.45mm against 8.25mm for that of the RM 016. In any case, Richard Mille had no choice. The reduction in the size of the housing was to be accompanied by a decrease in height to maintain harmonious proportions. Note that sealing is only 30 meters, a consequence perhaps of this reduction in thickness.
The last significant change is the use of the CRMA9 caliber. As mentioned above, it is much more than the watch engine. Its architecture, its finishes, its presentation constitute the basis of the aesthetic approach of the RM 16-02. This manufacture movement is also specific to this model and it is its construction which offers the visual maze composed of a platinum and titanium bridges Grade 5. The technical solutions implemented are however more classic in Richard Mille And I thus find the variable inertia pendulum and the barrel with rapid rotation. The rotor is in platinum to improve the efficiency of reassembly. I really like the design of this oscillating mass which remains in the spirit of the watch with an angular and geometric shape. The bridges and the platinum mix, in fact I can no longer distinguish from each other and it is of course wanted. On the battery or side side, the CRMA9 caliber is distinguished by its careful execution, this mechanical lace and its great aesthetic coherence. Its power reserve is around fifty hours (a little short depending on the current standards) for a frequency of 4Hz. Note the absence of a wheelchair but a walking indicator remains visible since the adjusting organ (including the pendulum) is noticeable on the dial side.
Two versions of the RM 16-02 are available as part of a limited series of 75 pieces each: either in titanium or in quartz Terracotta which is that presented in the photos. The latter is obviously the most original and the most interesting. Its color is subtle because it is not aggressive. The rendering is singular but works very well with the rectangular housing and the maze of the dial. The RM 16-02 is positioned if not without worry on the wrist thanks to the deploying loop which is always of formidable efficiency. It firmly maintains the case on the wrist which is good news. Despite the reduction in size (or volume to resume the terminology of Richard Mille), the RM 16-02 remains a “large” watch accentuated by its rectangular form. In any case, I took great pleasure in carrying it. The know-how of Richard Mille is noted in his successful approach … and in the ability to define a contemporary, singular and unwanted refinement rectangular watch. So yes, the price is high in absolute terms for a watch with two needles and without complications (CHF 120,000 excluding taxes for the titanium version and CHF 140,000 excluding taxes for the Terracota quartz version). But it is logical in the context Richard Mille and Especially, after having closely observed this RM 16-02, it is clear that it demonstrates all the progress made by the Manufacture since the release of the RM 016. The aesthetic proximity is Certainly there but the RM 16-02, due to the developments it integrates and its execution, is 3 cubits above its predecessor which was already a beautiful watch.
The most:
+ Aesthetic consistency pushed to the extreme
+ Optimized proportions
+ Comfort to wear
+ The visual rendering of the quartz tpt terracota case
The least:
– the tightness of only 30 meters
– a slightly short power reserve (50 hours)
– the price, high in absolute terms but which will not prevent both versions from selling without problem
