We all know that it is extremely complicated to create a successful simple, round three-hand watch. It offers fewer possibilities, degrees of freedom to define a style that brings something new, if not innovative. However, some people succeed and such successes must be highlighted because they are the expression of real talent. No need to invent a new display, no need to dare strange shapes, a watch that indicates the time in a traditional way can also surprise, seduce and that is what I felt with the Projekt 01 by Kollokium. Kollokium is the project resulting from the meeting of 3 well-known players in the watchmaking world: Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer and Amr Sindi. The idea for the project germinated in the minds of the 3 men during the Covid period and it was at the beginning of this year that we were able to discover the first iteration of the Projekt 01, a watch produced in 99 copies, recognizable by its orange second hand and dedicated to the friends of the founders. After this first batch, the time has come to discover the new edition of the Projekt 01, this time open to a wider audience, that is to say the people who have come forward via the Kollokium website.
You will notice the relief effects of the dial:
This second edition therefore gives me the opportunity to explain why I like this Projekt 01. It seduced me instantly thanks to its design which is both classic and bold, surprising and coherent. The Projekt 01 embodies an innovative style and translates a real personality. Moreover, this personality is so strong, expressed through each detail that the trio did not even feel the need to affix the brand name on the dial or the glass. You have to be damn confident to present a new watch (and brand) with a dial free of any inscription but the choice was obvious given the construction of the dial. And since in all cases, the signature was manifested through the unique aesthetic, it became totally useless.
How could I describe this watch? By saying that it is a contemporary piece, truly three-dimensional and luminous. The contemporary dimension comes first from the shape of the hands, simple and effective and in particular from the second hand which reminds me of a sewing needle. The two main hands, spatula type remind me, in a more refined way, of those of a Royal Oak. The contemporary dimension is also evident through the dial, free of any inscription and in the sharp lines of the steel case. When we examine the Projekt 01 in profile, we realize the complex design work that has been carried out on this case, wider at its base (40mm) than at its top (38.5mm). The lugs are perfectly integrated and they are connected to each other, thus creating a sort of base on which the watch is built. The font that inscribes the name of the watch on the case (K,Pn°01 or Kollokium Projekt 01) reinforces this almost futuristic atmosphere. It is also the same font that is used on the solid back of the case.
The three-dimensional aspect is permanent. Just run your finger over the middle of the case, over the crown to feel all these reliefs. However, the most striking volume effect cannot be touched. It remains no less spectacular: it is of course the dial which is composed of 468 small luminescent cylinders. The latter have various sizes and diameters which create bumps that materialize the indexes. The result is simply stunning and effective. Despite the absence of numbers, traditional indexes or a peripheral minute track, the Projekt 01 remains perfectly readable. It is also a real pleasure to observe the curves of these bumps which also contribute to the modernity of the design.
The first version of the Projekt 01, recognizable by its orange needle:
Finally, the Projekt 01 is a luminous watch. It is luminous in daylight thanks to the glassbox glass which provides an intense and homogeneous light over the entire dial. It is also luminous in the dark when the luminescence of the small cylinders and hands comes into action. Note that in the second version of the Projekt 01, the tint of the luminescence is bluish and is therefore different from that of the first version. The glass is in any case magnificent and extends the case. The piece has no bezel and offers a very attractive aesthetic continuity. Despite the “chimney” rendering of the glass, the thickness of the watch remains acceptable with a total height of 10.6mm.
The elastic fabric bracelet is an integral part of the concept:
In fact, the main quality of the Projekt 01 is its coherence. Nothing seems out of place and each element, designed with great care, is in its place, contributing to the aesthetic success of the whole and to the definition of this unique atmosphere. I could thus evoke the harmony that reigns between the crown and the case or the shape of the bracelet hook that recalls the second hand. A design is successful when everything seems natural and this is the case here.
I focused most of my remarks on the design because it is obviously the key factor of the Projekt 01. It embodies an artistic bias and that is what allows it to stand out. From a mechanical point of view, the context is more classic but solid and adapted. The watch is in fact powered by a La Joux-Perret G101 caliber which is the equivalent of an ETA 2824 caliber. It has a power reserve of 68 hours for a frequency of 4hz. The choice of this movement seems to me to be the right one. Reliable, with very good winding efficiency, it will accompany the Projekt 01 over time without worry and that is a reassuring factor for me. Note that it is not visible since the case back is solid.
One last point that must be emphasized is the comfort of wearing. The Projekt 01 is not equipped with a classic bracelet but with an elastic fabric bracelet that closes with a hook. I found this system clever and above all it holds the watch very firmly on the wrist, a guarantee of comfort. Two colors are available: black or gray and I have a preference for the latter, especially with the second version, amplifying the monochrome rendering of the whole.
As you can see, I was truly seduced by this watch that effectively handles paradoxes. It remains classic in its display but innovative in its design. It is original but remains harmonious and controlled. It is undoubtedly a real favorite for me and it is also very nice to see such a success in a reasonable price segment (the sale price is set at 2,666 CHF excluding taxes). Supported by a flawless quality of execution (the dial is really not easy to make) and giving off a feeling of seriousness because it is the fruit of a successful approach, the Projekt 01 is for me one of the most convincing three-hand watches of the year. The three founders of Kollokium are starting their joint adventure on an excellent basis and this is the reason why their brand will be one to watch closely in the coming years.
Most:
+ an aesthetic success, a mixture of audacity and mastery
+ the quality of the execution, particularly at the dial level
+ excellent support on the wrist
+ the reasonable price
The lessers:
– the fabric strap may fray slightly if the hook is mishandled
