The problem with Chinese tourbillons is that they are often accompanied by a very baroque aesthetic that is surely linked to a kind of complex that pushes local brands to overplay the style effects. The result is very often indigestible, full of useless decorations and bad references to European watchmaking. Or, when the sobriety card is played, it is to fall into the copy of well-known brands such as Breguet. It is a shame because from a mechanical point of view, a Chinese tourbillon can be quite satisfactory, offering in some cases correct behavior with a rather pleasant visual rendering of the cage.
The approach of Inercy, a young French brand founded in 2020 by two childhood friends, Thibault and Alexis, is to take advantage of the characteristics of a Chinese movement, adapt it to our Western tastes in order to offer a tourbillon watch at a reasonable price. I recently had the opportunity to see the prototypes of the two versions of the ONE, Inercy’s first watch, and I feel that they have achieved their goal.
The ONE is a classic watch, without a single fault, without any real originality either, but which has the virtue of having a timeless style. The dial, however, conceals a trick, the 3 cardinal indexes ONE, inspired by a compass and which define the name of the watch. Another reminder of the compass is made thanks to the red end of the dauphine minute hand.
The case has a diameter of 42mm for a thickness of 12mm. The size is therefore rather imposing but the dial remains balanced. Indeed the opening of the tourbillon occupies almost all the space between the axis of the hands and the peripheral minute track. This opening therefore allows you to enjoy the spectacle offered by the caliber 345 with flying tourbillon coming from PTS. The diameter of the caliber is 33mm and in this context, it was difficult to design a smaller case size. This caliber is in any case very pleasant from a visual point of view. The behavior of the cage is pleasant to observe and the skeleton presentation at the back is well executed for an industrial manufacture and in this price segment. In addition, the chromatic ambiance remains sober and corresponds well to the state of mind of the design on the dial side. The movement has a frequency of 4hz (an interesting frequency for a tourbillon) and a power reserve of around forty hours.
Inercy communicates on a precision range of +/- 10 seconds much more efficient than that announced by PTS: +/- 25 seconds. This is explained by the work carried out within the watchmaking workshop located in Paris which proceeds with the adjustment of the movement and the assembly of the watches. Some aesthetic operations are also carried out in Paris such as the polishing of the case. In addition, the location of the workshop also facilitates after-sales service operations which is reassuring. In any case, it is important to specify that elements of the exterior such as the dial or the hands are designed in France and Switzerland.
The case is made in Asia but it is nonetheless attractive thanks to the work on the case middle and the horns. The finish of the dial contributes to the perceived quality of the whole with a nice alternation between smooth and textured areas. The onion-shaped crown is easy to handle which is a positive point, making winding more pleasant. On the other hand, I was not totally won over by the inscription of the brand logo. I know that the Inercy team will review its position and size but I would suggest taking advantage of the change to think about modifying the font which I find too basic.
Two dial colors are available: light gray or dark gray. This initial series will be produced in 100 copies, each watch being sold at the price of 1,290 euros including tax. I personally found the choice of dial colors judicious, making the whole elegant and sober which is welcome with such a large dial opening. I liked both colors but I may have a preference for the dark gray which reduces the perceived size a little. The ONE watch is sold in a box which will contain, in addition to the warranty card, a suede and a travel case. Delivery of the parts is estimated at least April 2024 at this stage. Note that the canvas strap is also made in France and that its flexibility ensures that the case is held well on the wrist.
I found that at the announced price, the proposal was coherent. You can certainly find cheaper Chinese tourbillon watches. But the general approach to design and production is neat and the simple and sober style seemed to me much better suited to our tastes than tourbillon watches coming directly from China. Without being revolutionary, Inercy’s offer is in any case clean and reasonable and it perfectly meets the initial objective which was to market a long-lasting tourbillon watch at a contained price. The challenge is to succeed in seducing a clientele who will prefer to pay more for a Chinese tourbillon watch thanks to the quality of the execution and services, the design and the point of contact in Paris. In any case, I hope that this series will be crowned with success because the brand has interesting projects in the future.
The pros:
+ the presentation of the dial, simple and sober
+ the finish of the movement, correct in this segment
+ adjustment and assembly within the Paris workshop, providing a point of contact in France and strengthening sustainability
The cons:
– the brand logo needs to be reworked
