Let’s be clear from the outset: the reissue of the Formula 1 by Tag Heuer made in partnership with Kith is not a watch that I like. Even if this reissue is faithful to the spirit of the original watch from the 80s (35mm size, quartz movement, colorful design, etc.), it is still much too small on my wrist (the dial opening is very small given the thickness of the bezel) and above all, I find the price much too high (1,500 euros) for the services. The Tag Heuer Formula 1 x Kith is what I call a cicada watch: it will sing for one summer only and spending 1,500 euros for a watch with an ephemeral vocation, that’s 1,500 euros less to finance a much nicer watch such as a pretty Skipper to stay within the same brand.
So, was Tag Heuer wrong to do this reissue? If I put aside my qualms, the answer is clearly no. And better than that: Tag Heuer would have been wrong not to take this step. In fact, when I coldly analyze the launch of this reissue, composed of about ten pieces (7 exclusively at Kith, 3 at Tag Heuer), I see only advantages for the brand without seeing a single disadvantage.
First of all, I think that this release had a considerable media impact. All the major blogs presented this new product, not to mention the general press. I don’t think that a single new product from Tag Heuer unveiled during Watches & Wonders, including the Monaco Chronographe Rattrapante, has reached the same level of exposure and reaction messages, positive or negative. The Tag Heuer Formula 1 x Kith has undoubtedly generated buzz and that’s always good to take.
Then, it allowed us to delve back into the heritage not of Heuer but of Tag Heuer. And there too, it’s an excellent idea. It recalls the brand’s long-standing involvement in Formula 1, it also recalls that it already distinguished itself in the 80s with a product totally in tune with its time. Let’s not forget either that this Formula 1 was often one of the first watches that collectors bought forty years ago… a sort of initiatory watch therefore! So isn’t it a good idea to revive such memories among a clientele that plays an important role in prescription?
Finally, the nature of the partnership with a fashion brand also makes sense. Tag Heuer even allows itself to divert its logo in order to integrate the name Kith. Such a gesture could be perceived as dangerous (we do not touch the logo!) but it is smart in the context of a partnership that favors the associated house. Let us not forget that 7 of the 10 watches are sold exclusively at Kith. The objective here is really to bring Tag Heuer into Kith rather than the other way around. So what is the ultimate goal? Quite simply to make the Tag Heuer brand “cool”, fashionable and to open it up to a more lifestyle than watchmaking clientele. The challenge of customer renewal concerns all brands, even the biggest ones and Tag Heuer is tackling it with this reissue.
But then, wouldn’t the danger be to tarnish Tag Heuer’s image? The risk seems low to me. This collection is a limited edition, sales are showing great success and it will all sell out quickly. Then we’ll move on to something else. Minds will have been marked and releasing a colorful, practical watch that is water-resistant to 200 meters will not seem totally absurd when summer arrives. The good news for Tag Heuer is that in 2024, the watchmaking world is constantly presenting new products, one news item chases another and in the end, Tag Heuer will start communicating about its usual offering, such as the Aquaracer or other Carrera. This is why I don’t think that the fact of having sold at one point a small colorful quartz watch for 1,500 euros could be a barrier to purchase for a more traditional clientele.
In conclusion, I am convinced that the presentation of this collection in the small lull period that followed the intense activity of Watches & Wonders is a good move on Tag Heuer’s part. It brings dynamism to the brand, visibility without necessarily generating difficulties. I have read comparisons with the Moonswatch here and there. I have not seen an obvious similarity between the two strategic orientations. First, the Moonswatch is a lasting phenomenon while the vocation of the Tag Heuer Formula 1 x Kith is to be limited. Then the latter is a reissue of a model that existed while the Moonswatch is an affordable interpretation of a watchmaking myth. Finally, there is a world of difference between a label at 1,500 euros and one at less than 300 euros. In short, each to their own and in any case for Tag Heuer, despite the fact that this watch does not attract me at all, the operation is a winner on many aspects.
