The new version of the Patrimony Manuelle did not make the headlines among Vacheron Constantin’s new releases of the year. However, it is interesting to come back to it because it demonstrates that small details can have great importance.
The new version of the Patrimony Manuelle has a 39mm white gold or pink gold case, i.e. 1mm less than the version already existing in the catalog. This does not seem to be crucial information but I must admit that I find this version more successful. It simply seems more harmonious to me because it is a two-hand watch (it does not have a second hand), the dial seems less empty. In addition, the 39mm version is slightly thicker: in a way it recovers in thickness (7.7mm) the millimeter lost in diameter. The very slender style of the 40mm version is modified and the new result has more personality.
The great strength of the Patrimony Manuelle lies in its subtle case. Observation of the caseband demonstrates the attention that was paid to the development of this case, particularly at the level of the lugs. They seem rather long, in fact they are particularly curved and fit the wrist well. The bottom of the case is solid which is not a problem. The caliber 1440 is a very pretty movement but its size remains modest (22mm) and if it were visible, it would seem lost in the case. In addition, the solid case back invites engraving and this subject of personalization is the subject of more communication from Vacheron Constantin.
The dial is slightly domed and has an old silver tint which creates pretty reflections of light. This is important to emphasize because these reflections bring animation. Let’s not forget that the watch does not have a power indicator, neither on the front nor on the back. You must therefore hold the watch to your ear to hear the ticking of the movement and assess whether it is working or not. The power reserve is 42 hours, the watch must be wound daily which corresponds well to the spirit of such a piece: the act of winding itself is part of the pleasure it provides.
Vacheron Constantin also took the opportunity of the presentation of the two versions to equip them with bracelets in changing colors: azure blue for the rose gold version, olive green for the white gold version. It’s good to see alternative colors and brands are starting to understand that it is important to move away from the eternal black & brown duo to bring a little cheerfulness to the offering.
The selling price is 27,500 euros, which is still more than 3,000 euros more than the equivalent with a diameter of 40mm. The weights being equivalent, it is surely a question of manufacturing timing which would explain the higher production costs of the most recent version and thus justify this difference.
In any case, I find that the 39mm version is slightly more accomplished and that its size is more than sufficient. Given the thinness of the bezel, opening the dial makes the perceived size of the Patrimony Manual 39mm larger than it is. In any case, I appreciated the rebalancing of the proportions which is noticeable once the watch is put on the wrist. Thanks to the team at the Vacheron Constantin boutique on rue du Faubourg St Honoré.
