The 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders has just closed its doors on a positive note in terms of attendance at the show. Whether professionals or the public, everyone appreciated the efforts made in terms of organization and in particular in terms of managing the entrance and access to the stands. Given its scale, this show remains a benchmark in the way in which visitors are welcomed and it is a real pleasure for me to discover the new products of the brands present over several days. The pace was sustained given an enlarged plateau compared to last year and the presence of a new space (the mezzanine) which, by welcoming new houses, materializes the growth potential of the show. I must also highlight the quality of the welcome from the brands who have always ensured that the meetings go as well as possible, by making the pieces available and providing flexibility in the event of delays or unforeseen events.
Due to the brands’ strategy, which now aims to present new products throughout the year, Watches & Wonders does not necessarily concentrate all the orders taken. The commercial role obviously remains crucial but it is attenuated, in my opinion, compared to what the SIHH or Baselworld were in the past. The show is nonetheless essential and fundamental as a meeting place, for exchanges between participants and as a vector for communication from the industry to the outside. It must symbolize the energy and power of the sector and to do this the stands must “impress”. The show is also a real success on this point, with major brands competing in imagination to immerse visitors in atmospheres embodying the key messages.
And then there is the market context. And there, the situation is more complicated. After the crazy post-covid years, the slowdown is evident. With macroeconomic indicators and the geopolitical context not leading to optimism either, brands took advantage of this edition of Watches & Wonders to adopt a cautious attitude, putting forward a conservative and consolidation strategy. In any case, there is also the particular context of the industry which encourages taking a break. Production remains complicated, so what is the point of presenting hundreds of new products when we already have to deliver what we previously promised?
The 2024 vintage of Watches & Wonders is far from being the most innovative and creative in recent years. However, it is solid with in-depth work on the quality of details that matter a lot to customers. I am thinking in particular of the glasses, buckles, bracelets, and tactile sensations. In other words, there are not necessarily unforgettable new products that will create a buzz, but there are watches that have what it takes to seduce the end customer. And in the end, that is the most important thing. Another trend that has emerged is the clearer return of the dress watch. Is the chic sports watch with an integrated bracelet starting to tire? In any case, it is around the simple and elegant watch that the best pieces of the show were concentrated, in my opinion. In this homogeneous context and without real stars of the show, I offer you my selection of my 10 favorite watches, in no particular order. As always, it was difficult to establish but you have to make choices.
Rolex 1908 Platinum
By offering a guilloché dial for its platinum 1908, Rolex took the risk of making the whole thing visually heavier given the fluted bezel. However, everything works perfectly thanks to the ice blue color which softens the visual rendering and gives a lot of elegance. The context specific to the 1908 (balanced proportions, high-performance and visible movement) does the rest.
Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé
What I liked most about this new Hermès watch is not the combination of the tri-axial tourbillon and the minute repeater but its coherence. The smallest details recall the equestrian atmosphere with the key points being the shape of the hammers and the cutting of the cogs. A technical and aesthetic success.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon
Laurent Ferrier returns to one of his favorite exercises (the annual calendar) but adds a very beautiful display of the moon phases whose luminescence brings a touch of modernity. The watch is classic certainly but very contemporary in its execution. As for the movement, it is always a pleasure to observe it… without forgetting the practical dimension due to the position of the power reserve indicator on the back of the case.
Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton
I found Moser very active at the show, with its sights set on the watches that will materialize the partnership with Alpine. In the meantime, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton hits the mark, the technical and complex rendering of the skeleton movement creating a harmonious contrast with the geometric aspect of the case and bracelet. Despite the multitude of visible details, the tourbillon cage manages to catch our eye thanks to its hypnotizing behavior.
Angelus Speed Instrument
I really liked this deceptively simple watch. Powered by an evolution of the famous THA caliber, it offers a one-minute chronograph in a classic, refined and deliciously retro aesthetic context. Its diameter is ideal and the presentation of the movement ended up convincing me. A success both from a design and mechanical point of view.
Patek Philippe 5330G
I’ll be honest, I prefer world time watches without a date display. But there is the know-how of Patek Philippe which intelligently integrates it by linking it to the local time and favoring a peripheral display. The whole is harmonious and Patek Philippe even manages to give a touch of modernity and relaxation to this traditional complication of its catalog. A relevant and accomplished evolution.
Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Moon Phase
Raymond Weil finds new momentum with its Millesime collection, which offers “neo-retro” watches with sector dials designed with great care and precision. The addition of the moon phase display brings a little touch of poetry and the Millesime Automatic Moon Phase seduced me with the quality of its presentation.
Cartier Privé Turtle two hands
As usual, Cartier was one of the most active brands, which makes sense given its size and the different customer segments it reaches. It remains true to its strategy of focusing on what it does best: the shaped watch. In this context, the Cartier Privé collection is dedicated this year to the Tortue case with a new interpretation of the monopusher chronograph. But it is the two-hand version that seduced me the most, whether in platinum or yellow gold. The watch is simply beautiful and the simplicity of the dial highlights the sensual curves of the case. It embodies the best of Cartier.
Parmigiani Toric Small Second
Parmigiani has simply presented one of the most beautiful dress watches at the show. This is only on the dial side, even if its execution (and that of the case) is excellent. The movement also has significant assets. First, its performance (60 hours of power reserve for a frequency of 4 Hz) and then its architecture which highlights the double barrel. In short, the Toric Petite Seconde has made an impression thanks to its refinement and the pleasure it provides when winding manually.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
A technical feat was needed in this selection. It is difficult not to choose Piaget, which manages to house an annular tourbillon in a 2mm thick case. The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary looks a lot like its predecessor without a tourbillon, but almost everything has been revised. What is incredible is that in this context of a record for finesse, Piaget has managed to give a feeling of volume and relief. The piece is spectacular and fascinating, worthy of the celebration of this very beautiful anniversary.
As usual, I would like to point out that I could have included other watches in this selection, but I wanted to limit it to 10 pieces. However, I will have the opportunity in the coming months to go into more detail on the most striking watches, whether or not they are part of this selection. Note that I will also be making a selection of my favorite watches seen during the Geneva watch week… but outside the official context of Watches & Wonders.
