Lip puts the Nautic 3 back in the spotlight with four new references, including a limited edition collaboration. These diving watches, water-resistant to 200 meters, in a compact 39 mm format, embody the evolution of modern diving watches, born from a vital imperative underwater. Offered at prices that remain down to earth (we applaud the formula for evoking diving watches…), they are neither flashy nor pretentious: just coherent, well-designed timepieces, designed to be worn every day.
Yes, these are quartz watches. And no, it’s not a lack of taste. At this price level, I largely accept this choice: better a reliable, precise, properly integrated quartz than a low-end mechanical movement which mainly serves to reassure the wearer’s ego.
Nautic 3: a French diver without a marketing posture
Nautic is not a name thrown into a marketing department. At Lip, it refers to a true lineage of diving watches that appeared in the 60s and 70s, at a time when the toolwatch was still an object of necessity before becoming a symbol of social status.
The current Nautic 3 retains this tool philosophy:
- 39mm steel case,
- waterproofness announced at 200 meters,
- unidirectional bezel,
- curved anti-reflective sapphire crystal,
- screw-down crown.
The format is particularly well regarded. 39 mm is the smart size: present enough to remind you that you are wearing a diver, discreet enough not to transform the wrist into an advertising billboard.
Three new Nautic 3 Quartz: a common base, three characters
Nautic 3 ref. 671861: the most expressive
With its orange Tropic bracelet and blue dial, the reference 671861 takes on a sunny, almost playful side. The nod to vintage divers is obvious, but not caricatured. Orange stands out, brings depth and visual rhythm. This is the most “vacation” Nautic 3, the one that smells of sunscreen, salt on the skin and long afternoons.
Nautic 3 ref. 671862: the most versatile
Steel bracelet, matte blue dial, impeccable readability: the 671862 is the most versatile version of the range. The one that I would easily see on my wrist every day, in town or on weekends. She doesn’t try to be noticed, but she holds her own. A contemporary tool watch in the noble sense of the term.
Nautic 3 ref. 671863: the most “posed”
With its sunray blue dial and black bezel, the 671863 gains in elegance without denying its diver DNA. The reflections on the dial provide an interesting visual depth, almost more “dressy” than the other two. This is probably the easiest Nautic 3 to wear in a semi-formal context, without it seeming incongruous.
Quartz VH31: a pragmatic choice, not a renunciation
The three Nautic 3s are equipped with the VH31 quartz caliber, known for its smooth sweeping second hand. This detail may seem anecdotal, but it changes the perception of the watch on a daily basis: we find a more “organic” reading of the seconds, less choppy than on a classic quartz.
Precision, reliability, controlled cost: the winning trio. At this price, quartz is a logical solution. It makes it possible to offer a real, accessible diving watch, without blowing the bill or sacrificing the overall quality of the object.
The Nautic W: a collaboration that is not just a logo
Alongside the three catalog references, Lip is offering a limited edition of 300 copies: the Nautic W, the result of a collaboration with The Watch Observer. Yes, we’re nice, we even talk about other watch media here. The opposite is almost never true (quick little dig hahahaha).
The matte black dial is refined, the date disappears, the timer migrates to the bezel. We find Lip’s historic lightning bolt on the dial and second hand, as a discreet reminder of the brand’s roots.
The choice to deliver the watch with two Tropic bracelets (black and orange) is relevant. This gives two possible readings of the same object: a sober, almost utilitarian version, and a more expressive, more summery version. For a limited series priced at €329, the whole thing is coherent, without falling into the pitfall of gadget collaboration.
Value for money: Lip is right on target
Between €299 and €349 for the standard Nautic 3, and €329 for the limited edition Nautic W, Lip remains in a reasonable price zone for a serious diving watch:
- 316L steel case,
- sapphire glass,
- water resistance 200 m,
- careful readability,
- timeless design.
We are far from the oversold “marketing” divers, who rely more on the message than on the object itself. Here, the watch speaks for itself. She doesn’t need to tell her story.
Honest watches for lucid watch enthusiasts
These new Nautic 3s are not fantasy watches. They do not seek to flatter the ego or fuel speculation. They are there to be worn, used, sometimes damaged, often looked at. Watches that live with the wearer, rather than sleeping in a box.
In a watchmaking world where stories are sometimes sold for more than watches, Lip’s proposition has something almost reassuring. Not revolutionary, but healthy. And, when you think about it, maybe that’s exactly what we want from a modern diver.
Synthetic technical sheet – Lip Nautic 3
Case: 316L stainless steel, 39mm
Glass: domed sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Waterproofing: 200 meters
Movement: quartz VH31 (fluid second hand)
Bezel: unidirectional
Indicative public price: from €299 to €349 depending on version
Nautic W limited edition: €329, 300 numbered copies
