The purpose of the previous article was to present the questions and perplexities that I had felt during the last edition of Watches & Wonders, it has a more positive vocation and highlights the points that I liked, putting aside my 10 favorite watches which also were the subject of a specific article. Because a living room as important as Watches & Wonders is absolutely not monotonous and each stand visit can generate intense and contradictory emotions. So during this Geneva week, good and unpleasant surprises followed one another and as I am naturally optimistic, I consider that the balance leans on the right side. So let’s see the different points that justify this result.
Rolex opens
The Geneva factory is like its watches. There is no revolution but it is experiencing a permanent evolution. I consider that its content becomes more accessible. Please note, I am not talking about the possibility of acquiring this or that piece whose decision -making power ultimately belongs to the retailers. But I rather speak of the highlighting of its movements and the technical explanations linked to it. Two examples: the Land-Dweller movement is visible and this is the first time that it happens on such a watch. Recently only the 1908 or the Daytona at the status of absolute unicorns (Platinum & Le Mans) were entitled in this regard. And finally, we realize that an automatic movement at Rolex, it is well presented and that the decorative finish is not to be outdone (the feeling that predominated was that only the technical finish was put forward). Second example: the organization of the stand with the possibility of seeing two Land-Dweller opposite the reception counter as well as the exhibition and the technical descriptions on the new movement and in particular its exhaust. Rolex wants to explain, becomes more demonstrative and finally opens in the literal or figurative.
The small watches of Alpina and Raymond Weil
One of the trends in the show is the reduction in sizes. Or rather: the living room was marked by the presence of several models whose sizes were around 34/35mm. In this context, it was the more affordable brands that have pulled out of the game. Alpina thus revealed a lovely Tropic-Proofer herit with manual reassembly with a 34mm diameter while the Raymond Weil vintage is now available with a 35mm diameter. It’s simple, it’s discreet, it’s well done and the small size highlights the neo-retro style. Good surprises.
Patek Philippe Cubitus 40mm
Well here, the Cubitus found its good size. Nothing surprising in this revelation, roughly the whole earth had found the three initial needles too large due to the shape of the case and the presentation of the dial. I sincerely find that the potential of the cubitus is better expressed in the 40mm versions because it becomes more balanced and harmonious. Note however that this size is only available at this stage with gold boxes.
Chopard knows how to make repeated watches minutes
This is unfortunately an observation: we talk little about Chopard and it’s a shame. Because when we objectively analyze things and in particular the sound quality of the repeated minutes watches, we realize that the house is capable of very good performances. No need to go get far away, the latest Luke Full Strike Revelation rings very effectively: rhythm, volume, purity, everything was for me a level worthy of the most beautiful factories. In addition, the watch is from a rather successful stylistic point of view. So it would be really unfortunate not to mention it.
Bulgari is finally present in Watches & Wonders
There was a political dimension behind the absence of Bulgari in Watches & Wonders but for someone like me, it was simply incomprehensible. The Hublot brands, Tag Heuer, Zenith were present and not Bulgari? Well, some might retort that Louis Vuitton herself is not there. Anyway, this is good news that Bulgari joined the show. Good news for the watchmaking community which is no longer obliged to go to another place discover the new features of the brand which is an important player in the industry and good news for Bulgari herself who is experiencing better exhibition. The entry of Bulgari was undoubtedly the event of the year from an organizational point of view, resulting in the reconfiguration of certain stands including those in particular of Hublot and Tag Heuer.
Zenith reintroduces caliber 135
As a low -frequency and large pendulum movements, I can only welcome that Zenith took advantage of the celebration of his 160th birthday to reintroduce the 135 caliber. And small bonus: the current version pushes the walking reserve to 3 days. In any case, the new GFJ collection will host watches led by this caliber, a priori with precious metal boxes. This caliber is a treat for the eyes because of its architecture and for the ears given the TIC-TAC characteristic of a movement at 2.5Hz. In the end, Zenith deploys his expertise both on high frequency and low frequency calibers. A great way to highlight the performance and capacities of the manufacture.
Speake-Marin Resilience marks its return
Resilience is back in the catalog of Speake-Marin and that is very good news. The success of the Ripples should not make us forget that it is the Piccadilly case which forged the reputation of the house. Resilience is available in two sizes (38mm and 42mm) in titanium and in a gold size (38mm). It is both classic because of its enamel and original dial given its characteristic box and the position of the second -hand second -hand highway. The result is very attractive and it constitutes a credible offer in this segment.
Chanel color mastery
The J12 is adorned with a matt and intense blue ceramic case. Blue is an obvious color in the watchmaking world and it is also the most complicated color. You always have to find the right dosage otherwise the shade can become very tire. I think that Chanel was able to avoid this pitfall and the color obtained is ideal, subtle and refined. The J12 Blue thus demonstrates Chanel’s capacities in terms of chromatic control, including with set parts.
The explosion of colors at Moser
Thanks to Moser, I was able to progress in my knowledge of stones. Three models from the Endeavour collection (Small Seconds, Tourbillon and Minute Repeater) are adorned with dials featuring 6 stones in 6 combinations involving two of them each time. The result is an explosion of colors but everything in control. Moser offers a dynamic and soft rendering at the same time and which remains elegant. In this context, each watch takes advantage of the sleek design of the Moser dials because the texture of the stones is thus highlighted. This Endeavor Pop collection is a success because the introduction of the textures and colors of the stones in the traditional aesthetic approach of the manufacture is very harmoniously.
The successful introduction of the whirlwind in the Antarctic collection of Czapek
It has become a kind of imposed exercise: the introduction of a whirlwind in a sport-chic watch with integrated bracelet. Czapek therefore had to respond to this issue as part of its Antarctic collection. The result is successful because the execution is rather original. Czapek played on the depth effects to create several points of convergence on its dial. The horizontal bridge gives volume while the dial seems to dive in its center. The whirlwind completes this dynamic dial which also plays with the reflections of light thanks to the dominant Guillochage. A beautiful watch that has renewed the genre.
BR-03 Skeleton of Bell & Ross
Certainly the term skeleton is exaggerated because they are open dial watches. Anyway, the 3 BR-03 Skeleton of Bell & Ross have an excellent virtue: they do not have a date window and this gives my eyes a lot of interest to these watches. I am not a fan of the small date counters at 4:30 am so when they disappear, it is good news for me. Just for that, I appreciated these 3 watches which, failing to be of great originality in the universe of Bell & Ross are distinguished by a solid execution. My favorite is the Gray Steel version, the brightest of the 3.
The return to principles of reality in Oris
Proposing manufacture movements is good. The problem is that if it is accompanied by a change of segment due to an increase in average prices, a brand can run the risk of losing its basic customers. Oris felt this risk and decided to return to her fundamentals based on her flagship watch: the Big Crown. Whether with the Big Crown (34mm) or the Big Crown Date (40mm), the prices are between 1,900 and 2,000 euros. Led by Sellita movements, these big crown are distinguished by their colored dials but which remain easy to wear. In any case, it was good to see that a brand reacted, especially from a tariff point of view in order to speak to Western customers again. Note the excellent surprise of the Big Crown 34mm which does not have a date window: it is prettier as well.
Piaget found the mojo
There was a time I thought Piaget had lost his way. It is clear that with the Duo Polo 79 and Andy Warhol, the manufacture has found not only spearheads but also style icons. It is also especially at the level of Andy Warhol that it happens. The watch is available in versions as beautiful as each other, it stages superb stones and successful boxes (the one with a blue meteorite dial and a nail box in Paris is sumptuous) and in addition, customers can make customization. It is the Piaget that we like, delicate, subtle, not necessarily in the watchmaker but rather in the field that the manufacture is best controlled: refinement.
The reception and the more relaxed atmosphere in independent watchmakers
I cannot quote everyone but the stands of independent brands offer a warm welcome with the pleasure of finding old friends that we have known for more than twenty years for some of them. I have always loved the contrasts in the salons. In Basel, we came out of the huge Rolex stand and we found ourselves in Ramada on a corner of the table to discover a watch made in a garage. So in Watches & Wonders, it is not the big Basel gap, but I like to take formal presentations of the big brands to the more relaxed and personal appointments of the brands located in the square of the watchrs, the place or the mezzanine. I like to discuss with the creators, the watchrs of their projects, their lives, the market, what they feel. I find it more sincerity, less tongue in wood. More than the watches, these are these meetings that I am looking for and this is what I appreciate more and more in Watches & Wonders. There was not this atmosphere in the “Historical Sihh Canal”.
I wanted to close this article on this atmosphere note which recalls that watchmaking is above all a human adventure. The general situation remains complicated, however, and apart from some (one?) Large actors, the next few months will be filled with challenges. American taxes are currently suspended, the figures are complicated in several markets, the purchasing power of customers is brief, the indicators are not green. Despite everything, the energy that emerges from a show such as Watches & Wonders breathes with actors a dose of optimism. This is the reason why these physical encounters, more than ever, are important. Without a living room of this scale, I sincerely think that watchmaking would enter the sinistrosis. This explains the fact that the balance that I mentioned at the start ends up leaning on the positive side.
