Chopard is very active at the beginning of the year in France. Indeed, the brand has just made its big comeback at the Rétromobile show thanks to a superb stand that was unanimously appreciated by visitors. The size of the stand (ideally positioned opposite the Kidston stand), the presence of legendary cars, the opportunity to meet Jacky Ickx and the retrospective of the Mille Miglia collection allowed Chopard to make an impression and reaffirm its commitment to the world of classic cars. But that’s not all. Chopard also took the opportunity to present a Mille Miglia Edition France model limited to 100 pieces. It is therefore very nice to see a major player in the watchmaking world dedicate a model to our market.
The main asset of this France Edition is the presentation and finish of the dial:
The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Edition France is in fact a variation of the Mille Miglia chronograph in its 40.5mm diameter version (for a thickness of 12.9mm). This is why I find the traditional aesthetic elements of this watch that make it recognizable at first glance. These elements are the characteristic Arabic numerals, the Mille Miglia logo housed under the inscription “Chronometer”, the mushroom pushers, the date at 4:30 and the organization of the dial in 3/6/9. The challenge for Chopard was therefore to find the right balance point so that the Edition France had its own identity while remaining within the usual framework of a Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph. The mission is accomplished thanks to the play of colors implemented on the dial. The latter combines touches of dark blue on the graduations of the sub-dials and the tachymeter scale, touches of red (the Mille Miglia logo, the three chronograph hands as well as the peripheral minute track numbers) with the dominant shade of the dial: a silver color obtained by galvanic treatment with a circular satin finish.
I really appreciated the presentation and the finish of the dial. The nod to France is very real but it is not too strong and the whole remains subtle and elegant. In addition, the fact that the graduations of the sub-dials are darker than the silver dial gave me the impression that they were thinner than usual. It is an optical illusion, in fact these graduations have the same thickness as with the other Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph models but the overall rendering of the dial seemed to me to tend towards a more elegant than sporty dimension. As usual, the hands and the peripheral Arabic numerals are covered with Super-LumiNova. I also find the date window at 4:30 and even if I understand its relevance from a commercial point of view, I remain convinced that the watch would be more beautiful without it. In any case, the finish of the dial is impeccable and the silver circular rendering is surely what I liked the most in this France Edition.
The case does not present any particular originality compared to the other models. It is however important to remember that it is made of “Lucent Steel”, a steel that now contains at least 80% recycled steel. The watch is comfortable to wear due to its reasonable size and the good support provided by the supple perforated calfskin strap. A detail that I appreciate in the case is the design of the caseband due to the decoration of the crown and pushers.
The reminder of the French context on the back of the watch:
The caseback is transparent in order to appreciate the movement that powers the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Edition France. It is in fact a modular caliber, an ETA 2894-2 or an ETA 2892-2 base that powers the chronograph module. I find it a bit of a shame that Chopard still uses this caliber for its Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph. Of course, it is a caliber that works well, is robust, reliable and in this context, precise (it is chronometer certified). In addition, it is used in its upgraded version with an extended power reserve (54 hours in this case compared to 42 hours for the basic ETA 2892-2 calibers for a frequency of 4 Hz). But given the price of the watch (which is marketed at a price of 10,400 euros), it would seem relevant to me that Chopard is now thinking about using a more exclusive and rewarding movement. Again, this does not detract from the quality of the watch, which is very well made and beautifully executed. But in 2024, in this price segment, we now expect a higher level of watchmaking content, especially from a brand that has the means and technical capabilities to move forward on this subject. There is an intermediary between ETA and LUC, I am thinking in particular of the 03.05-C caliber that equips the Alpine Eagle. Of course, the price of the Alpine Eagle Chronograph is higher (we are more than double) but there is surely something to be done around this caliber issue. Afterwards, I am also aware that there is the issue of movement production and ETA today is able to deliver the required volumes, which is more complicated to achieve by a more exclusive player.
The decoration of the pushers and the crown recalls the world of motor racing:
Beyond the view of the movement, the caseback is decorated with a double racing flag and tricolor that recalls the context of the France Edition. This double flag is positioned on the glass and it is the best solution. I thus liked that the dial is preserved from more sustained reminders of France. The play of colors of the dial is sufficient in itself.
The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Edition France is therefore ultimately a neat and aesthetically successful watch, if not original. But what pleased me the most was to see that Chopard considers the French market as important and this watch is a nice testimony to that.
The 40.5mm diameter is balanced for a chronograph:
The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Edition France is available at a price of 10,400 euros including tax as part of a limited series of 100 pieces.
The pros:
+ the presentation and finish of the dial
+ Chronometer certification
+ a French Edition watch, that’s a pleasure!
+ a reliable, durable caliber…
The cons:
– but which would deserve to be replaced by a more exclusive and rewarding caliber for a watch sold for more than 10,000 euros
– I would love for there to be a version of the Mille Miglia without a date window at 4:30
