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The adjustment ritual: a gesture of watchmaking culture
Setting an automatic watch is not just a technical operation: it is a ritual. The discreet clicking of the crown, the gentleness of manual winding, the elegance of a second that restarts at the top of the hour… When executed well, these gestures prolong the life of the caliber, preserve water resistance and avoid sometimes costly damage. Here is the clear, aesthetic and safe guide for an adjustment without missteps.
Prepare your watch (and your space)
Sit calmly, on a soft cloth to avoid scratches and slipping. If your watch has a screw-down crown, unscrew it gently (counterclockwise) until you hear a “click” releasing the stem.
Give energy to the movement
An automatic is never as cooperative as when it has a little power reserve. Before any adjustment, give it 20 to 30 turns of the crown in neutral position (crown unscrewed but not pulled). Reassuring: on most automatic movements, a sliding clutch device prevents over-winding. No need to be abrupt; the quality of a good gesture lies in its regularity.
Set the time without stress or wear
The fragility of a movement is especially revealed around the date. This is where classic errors arise.
The danger zone of the date
Avoid any date adjustment between approximately 8 p.m. and 4 a.m.: in this range, the date change cams and levers are engaged. To work safely, first place the hands around 6:30. This simple reflex protects you from unpleasant surprises.
Sync cleanly
- Time reference: prepare the official time (smartphone, atomic clock, time.is).
- Crown: pull it out to the last notch (hour). On a “stop second” caliber (hacking), the second hand stops: ideal for aiming for the top minute.
- Direction of rotation: favor moving the hands forward. A short step back is not a problem with many modern movements, but the best practice is to progress clockwise.
- AM/PM: to know if it is morning or afternoon, advance the hands until the date jumps: you have just passed midnight.
- Final adjustment: align the minute hand a few seconds before the top, then push the crown in at the signal. Screw it if necessary, without forcing the screw thread.
Set the date (and other complications) without damaging
“Quickset” date
- Safety: First set the time around 6:30.
- Crown: first notch (date). Turn gently to the desired date. Avoid scrolling the date backwards if your instructions do not allow it.
- Then return to the time screen to precisely position the time, taking AM/PM into account.
Date without “quickset”
On certain vintage or robust military-inspired calibers, there is no quick date setting. The safest method is to advance the hands in 24 hour cycles until the correct date. It’s longer, of course, but respectful of the mechanism. Avoid aggressive back-and-forths around midnight: they can stress the calendar levers.
Day-date, moon phase, GMT
- Day-date: same protocol as the date. Segment: first set the day and date to the first notch, away from the 8 p.m.–4 a.m. area, then the time.
- Moon phase: always set the time outside the risk zone (6:30 a.m.), then use the correctors with a suitable pusher (never a pen). Follow the instructions: some moons do not like nighttime settings.
- GMT/Jumping hour: if your watch allows local time to be set by jumping hours at the first notch, take advantage of this to cross the time zones without stopping. Otherwise, treat it like a classic three-hander.
After adjustment: tightness, precision, peace of mind
Nothing is more trivial and more expensive than a neglected joint. Push the crown back firmly, then screw it in without forcing: feel the threads engage before tightening. Before any contact with water, check that the crown and any screwed pushers are securely locked.
Control walking
- Simple measurement: compare daily drift over 48 hours (wear during the day, rest at night). A well-maintained modern automatic is often between −10 and +20 s/d, depending on caliber and position.
- Rest positions: at night, placing the watch face up, down, or on the edge can slightly influence the drift. Find the position that best compensates.
- Warning signs: sudden variations, advance of several minutes, unexpected stop, or strong magnetization (jerking seconds hand) require a visit to the watchmaker for fine adjustment or demagnetization.
Maintenance: good habits that save revisions
- Cleaning: wipe with a microfiber on the case and under the crown after use; mild soap and lukewarm water for waterproof watches, strap removed if leather.
- Magnetism: avoid speakers, magnetic clasps, iPad cases; a strong magnet can throw the adjustment out of whack.
- Shocks: it is better to remove the watch for tennis or DIY.
- Watch winder: useful if you alternate several pieces with calendar; speed and direction adapted to the caliber, never continuously 24/7.
- Service: one service every 5 to 7 years on average, depending on use and environment; gaskets and watertightness should be checked more often if the watch sees water.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Change the date between 8 p.m. and 4 a.m.
- Force a screwed crown that catches: reposition it to engage the thread.
- Turn the hands backwards for a long time, especially around midnight.
- Adjust or pull/push the crown underwater.
- Shake the watch to “start it”: gently winding it is enough.
- Ignore signs of magnetization or abnormal drift and continue for weeks without control.
The elegance of the right gesture
The great workshops have always known it: the longevity of a movement depends as much on the architecture of a caliber as on the finesse of the gesture of the person wearing it. Methodical adjustment, respect for mechanics and measured maintenance: that’s the formula. Your automatic watch will reward you with a serene gait, this pendulum that breathes at your rhythm, and this subtle punctuality which expresses, without a word, your attention to detail.
