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On the second-hand market, certain watches set the pace. They are transmitted, scrutinized, coveted. Between watchmaking culture, iconic design and skillfully distilled rarity, these pieces draw a clear line between collecting passion and enlightened investment. Immerse yourself in this moving pantheon where time is negotiated to the nearest second.
Why these watches dominate the second-hand market
At a time when supply is exploding and prices are normalizing after the post-2020 euphoria, ten models continue to capture attention. They all tick the same triad: a strong narrative (space, racing, the sea), an easily recognizable aesthetic signature, and a desirability supported by international demand. In short, the ideal recipe for the collection and, sometimes, a measured investment.
The Top 10 most sought-after watches
Rolex Submariner
From James Bond’s 6538 to the contemporary 124060, the Submariner remains the archetype of the chic diver. Readability, controlled proportions, tightness: the tool has become a symbol. On occasion, it combines utilitarian charm and statutory aura.
- Why it appeals: timeless, versatile icon, strong liquidity.
- To watch out for: repeated polishing, period dials and inserts.
Rolex Daytona
Born for the track, become a collector’s legend – special mention to vintage “Paul Newman”. Recent ceramic references (116500LN, 126500LN) remain secondary market trophies, between precision and prestige.
- Why it appeals: sporting aura, relative rarity, holy grail status.
- To watch out for: box/paper consistency, condition of links, volatile prices.
Rolex GMT-Master II
Designed for Pan Am, the GMT chronicles the golden age of travel. The two-tone “Pepsi” (BLRO) and “Batman” (BLNR) glasses symbolize this transatlantic chic. Second-hand, a sure classic for those who love something useful and beautiful.
- Why it appeals: dual-zone function, cult colorways.
- To watch out for: sealing, bezel clearance, insert alignments.
Patek Philippe Nautilus
The porthole according to Gérald Genta. The 5711 has faded away but its shadow hangs over the whole “integrated”. Horizontality of the dial, thinness of the case, comfort of the bracelet: the Nautilus remains the ultimate fantasy of many collectors.
- Why it appeals: legendary design, low production, heritage value.
- To watch out for: original papers, condition of the bracelet, Patek service.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The coup of 1972: steel treated like goldwork. From the Jumbo 15202 to the 15510, the Royal Oak combines “Tapisserie” dial, satin-finished edges and sculptural presence. In second hand, its magnetism does not weaken.
- Why it appeals: contemporary fine watchmaking, signature design.
- To watch out for: alternating polished/satin finish, wear of the links, authenticity of the dial.
Omega Speedmaster Professional
The only one to have set foot on the Moon. The Speedmaster transcends trends, hesalite or sapphire version, caliber 1861 or 3861. Its appeal: a solid history and a softer second-hand entry ticket.
- Why it appeals: NASA storytelling, readability, vast choice of refs.
- To watch out for: relumed hands/dials, tachy bezel, service history.
Cartier Tank
From the trenches to the modern heyday. The Tank is concentrated Parisian elegance: stretched stretchers, Roman numerals, railway rails. The Must, Louis or Amériqueine appeal to a mixed audience, vintage and contemporary.
- Why it appeals: transversal style, timeless codes, effortlessly dressed.
- To watch out for: worn gilding on the Musts, cabochon, cracked dials.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty‑Eight
Well-thought-out neo-vintage. Compact size, sixties vibe, manufacture caliber: the BB58 converted a generation. Used second-hand, it combines daily pleasure and relevant value for money for a first collection.
- Why it appeals: portability, reliability, color identities (Navy, Bronze).
- To watch out for: water resistance, bezel play, wear of the steel/fabric bracelet.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
The third way of sport-chic. Exquisite finishes, interchangeable strap system, in-house movement. The Overseas 4500V has established itself as a highly desirable alternative on the second-hand market.
- Why it appeals: discreet refinement, versatility with three bracelets.
- To watch out for: micro-scratches on polished surfaces, complete set.
Richard Mille (RM 011 and others)
High technicality worn on the wrist. Tonneau cases, composite materials, F1 influences: RM has created its own grammar. Second-hand, demand remains strong for sports series, despite sky-high prices.
- Why it appeals: performance image, innovative materials, limited series.
- To watch out for: impeccable provenance, condition of screws and case, original parts.
Collection or investment: buy well on occasion
The crest line is thin. For a vibrant collection, prioritize emotion and wearability: a worn watch is a loved watch. For a reasonable investment, stay focused on quality and liquidity.
- Prioritize condition and consistency: dial, hands, insert, bracelet.
- Require history: invoices, revisions, serial numbers, complete set.
- Observe the market: price indices, cycles, dispersion by reference.
- Stay patient: post-bubble corrections hold opportunities.
- Do not neglect costs: service, insurance, repair.
Current trends in the second-hand market
After the speculative peak, it is time for selectivity. Solid icons hold their place, certain references are rediscovered (Cartier, Vacheron), and discreet good taste regains its rights. Diversity wins: less flamboyance, more substance. For those who collect with curiosity — and invest wisely — the opportunity has perhaps never been more inspiring.
