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Designed by a young Gérald Genta for Universal Genève, the Polerouter model has left its mark on the history of watchmaking. Long forgotten, it is reborn today in the hearts of enthusiasts, driven by the vintage wave and the search for authenticity. Here’s why this watch is becoming essential again.
An icon born in the golden age of watchmaking
In the mid-1950s, Universal Genève launched the Poleroutera watch imagined by Gerald Genta at only 23 years old.
Designed for pilots of the Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) which flew over the North Pole, it celebrates Swiss precision and a taste for travel.
In the 1960s, its elegant design and sound micro-rotor movement have made it a symbol of functional elegance.
The Polerouter embodies this era when the mechanical watch was both tool and jewel.
The charm of authentic vintage
Domed dial, dauphine hands, winged logo: every detail tells of a bygone era.
Today, collectors appreciate the unique patina of each example and the robustness of its Universal 215 caliber.
This authenticity, far from modern industrial production, appeals to a new generation of enthusiasts.
A sharply rising rating
The vintage market has brought the Polerouter back to life:
- steel versions in good condition sell for around 1200 to 2000 €,
- the versions Luxury Or gold plated often exceed €3000,
- rare models signed “Genta” or “Sub” can reach €5000 and more.
These figures come from recent sales on Chrono24, forums and specialized auction houses.
The heritage that inspires today’s brands
Contemporary houses like Baltic, Serica Or Christopher Ward are clearly inspired by the Polerouter: finesse, sobriety, curved dials, retro charm.
In a world saturated with screens, this mechanical simplicity represents a return to basics.
“The Polerouter is a watch that does not seek to impress, but to last,” summarizes a Geneva collector.
In summary
Born in the 50s and star of the 60s, the Polerouter has stood the test of time without losing its beauty.
Between elegance, history and relative accessibility, it proves that a watch does not need to be modern to seduce — it just needs to have a soul.
Little secret: the brand is experiencing its rebirth under the flag of another very big brand which begins with a B.
