It was not without courage that I crossed the border of Boboland to go to Merci to discover the result of the second collaboration with Hodinkee. It was an excellent surprise and I did not regret this intrepid journey. Failing to reinvent watchmaking, the Merci Instruments H02 x Hodinkee is a watch that has an identity and which also has the great virtue of being offered at a reasonable price (650 euros).
The main character trait comes from the octagonal shape of the case and the bezel. But be careful, here we are not in a sort of imitation of a Royal Oak. The Merci Instruments H02 rather evokes the “bolt” watches such as the Zenith Defy of the 70s. Nothing innovative certainly but it is nice to find this kind of proposition nowadays in a context where the return of shaped watches is more with rectangular cases.
In addition, I found the execution neat. The work on the brushed silver dial is well done with raised numbers, a nice logo and a location of the 4 main indexes around the central zone. The latter is brushed vertically. The fact of having inserted an anthracite zone brings dynamism and the whole is very pleasant to observe thanks to the combination of the different finishes. I also appreciated that the reference to Hodinkee is made through the inscription Paris – New York, it is much more elegant to do it this way and it avoids the pitfall of passing for an advertising watch.
The case diameter is 36mm which is clearly sufficient considering its shape. Let’s not forget that shaped watches have a perceived size greater than round watches. Thus, once put on the wrist, the Merci Instruments H02 offers a nice presence and above all stands out thanks to its case. The “bolt” effect is undeniable.
From a mechanical point of view, the watch is equipped with a Miyota 9039 automatic caliber which has a power reserve of 42 hours. It is not visible due to the solid case back. I would have obviously preferred a more prestigious caliber but it is a reliable and robust movement and does not seem out of place in this price segment. In any case, for this type of watch, it is better to favor durability and the Miyota 9039 is in this category of movement without history even if the precision can be more random. The other advantage of this caliber is its relative thinness so that the thickness of the case is less than 10mm which is a good point. Note that the water resistance is 100 meters which gives it a certain versatility.
The watch is very comfortable to wear thanks to the flexibility of its strap. The original strap is honey brown and I am not really seduced by this color or by the texture which gives it a slightly old-fashioned look. This is not a problem because the lug width is 18mm which makes it a standard size. In short, other straps will do the job better.
In any case, the Merci Instruments H02 is a charming piece, well executed with an attractive dial and distinctive style. It is marketed as a limited series of 500 pieces but only a small number were available at the boutique on Boulevard Beaumarchais. It is also available via the Merci website. Finally, it is important to point out that the watch is assembled in France, in Besançon. In short, it is a very credible proposition for those looking for a watch that goes off the beaten track with a reasonable price.
